Engine swap questions

JustRob · Post by **JustRob** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:41 am

Blue Wolf;55459 wrote:Hmm well I have been thinking about just swapping to a full Y8, and was just here to confirm that that would be the better of those four options, and it is seeming to be. So what is the info on one of those? Like the year/type of car it comes from and stuff/how much it might be? The basics pretty much on what I am going to need to save/get/and then what I will need to know in order to get the parts for that engine (96-00 EX as stated bove)?

Make sure to get a complete D16Y8 motor including the TB, IM w/ all sensors, dizzy, block and head w/ all sensors, crank pulley, etc. Also get the P2P ECU and to get the most power out of the setup, get a 1996-200 Honda Civic EX transmission to go with the setup.

Blue Wolf · Post by **Blue Wolf** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:43 am

Cable, Hydraulic, or LSD tranny? Which is the best of those and why? Which should I get?

JustRob · Post by **JustRob** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:43 am

Blue Wolf;55463 wrote:Ok that's what I thought, 96-00 EX. Ok, what is a P2P ECU? What's the difference between that and an OBD1? Which is better in your opinion and why? Lol, sorry for all the questions, just wanting to find out the basics and stuff before I go and do an engine swap a little later down the line.

The P2P ECU came out of the 1996-2000 Honda Civic EX. It is direct plug and play for your car, just wire in VTEC.

JustRob · Post by **JustRob** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:48 am

Blue Wolf;55467 wrote:Cable, Hydraulic, or LSD tranny? Which is the best of those and why? Which should I get?

As far as Civics go, the cable D-Series transmissions only go in the 88-91 models. The will NOT work in any other year. I wouldn't worry about the LSD Hydro transmission since it sounds like your not wanting to keep this as your ultimate setup. The LSD transmission will cost almost as much as the engine. Just find a 1996-2000 Honda Civic EX transmission, it a hydraulic transmission.

Blue Wolf · Post by **Blue Wolf** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 6:04 am

Ok about the ECU - I've been told that OBD1 is better, because it is easier to modify your engine. Is this correct? Would switching to OBD1 result in me getting more power? For example, mine has an OBD2 ECU in it, obviously, and after installing NGK V-Power spark plugs, and a high-flow intake, I noticed no improvement whatsoever in my 0-60 time. But when I installed my short shifter and ground wire kit (before the plugs and intake) I did have an increase in my 0-60. This makes sense, as neither the shifter or ground wires have anything to do with the ECU. And I was told that the ECU noticed the change in air coming into the engine and therefore tuned itself back down pretty much in order to get the stock amount of air or whatever, and that is why there was no improvement in my hp or 0-60 at all when I installed that, and that OBD1 ECUs do not tune themselves back down, making it easier to tune up my engine and get more power.

About the tranny - Actually, this engine is going to be my ultimate setup for this car. I'm just wanting something simple that can be made to put down 4-500hp and be my daily driver while I work on getting a different car to really crack down on. So would it be better to get the LSD tranny? What I am hoping to do is get the Y8 engine, leave it out of my car while I work on it and just run on the engine it has got on it now until hopefully I am done with the Y8. Going to rebuild the Y8 and such so it has 0 miles, and that is why I want to wait until it is done to put it in. If I put it in my car with 0 miles on all of the parts, it will be easier to keep track of how many miles all the parts have on it, rather than me buying the engine, having it rebuilt, putting it in my car, and then working on it. Then I would have parts with thousands of miles in between them and it would become a lot more complicated, lots more to keep track of.

EDIT: But, knowing me, I will get the engine and not be able to wait until it is completely finished with all the aftermarket parts before I put it in, lol. I will want to put it in ASAP probably because I want more power..I'm a speed freak, and my puny setup now is just not cutting it and I am anxious to get more power. Hopefully I can control myself, though, and wait until it is finished as to avoid confusion with the parts like I mentioned. Although, I have been thinking it might be better to put it in and work on it while the engine is in my car, that way I get used to more power little by little, instead of going from maybe 110-115hp to 4-500hp all of a sudden. That could be dangerous.

JustRob · Post by **JustRob** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 6:09 am

Blue Wolf;55480 wrote:Ok about the ECU - I've been told that OBD1 is better, because it is easier to modify your engine. Is this correct? Would switching to OBD1 result in me getting more power? For example, mine has an OBD2 ECU in it, obviously, and after installing NGK V-Power spark plugs, and a high-flow intake, I noticed no improvement whatsoever in my 0-60 time. But when I installed my short shifter and ground wire kit (before the plugs and intake) I did have an increase in my 0-60. This makes sense, as neither the shifter or ground wires have anything to do with the ECU. And I was told that the ECU noticed the change in air coming into the engine and therefore tuned itself back down pretty much in order to get the stock amount of air or whatever, and that is why there was no improvement in my hp or 0-60 at all when I installed that, and that OBD1 ECUs do not tune themselves back down, making it easier to tune up my engine and get more power.

About the tranny - Actually, this engine is going to be my ultimate setup for this car. I'm just wanting something simple that can be made to put down 4-500hp and be my daily driver while I work on getting a different car to really crack down on. So would it be better to get the LSD tranny? What I am hoping to do is get the Y8 engine, leave it out of my car while I work on it and just run on the engine it has got on it now until hopefully I am done with the Y8. Going to rebuild the Y8 and such so it has 0 miles, and that is why I want to wait until it is done to put it in. If I put it in my car with 0 miles on all of the parts, it will be easier to keep track of how many miles all the parts have on it, rather than me buying the engine, having it rebuilt, putting it in my car, and then working on it. Then I would have parts with thousands of miles in between them and it would become a lot more complicated, lots more to keep track of.

You won't be able to daily a 500whp D-Series. Just do some research on D-Series.org because it still sounds like you have a lot to learn. Spend a couple hours looking at peoples setups and see what works and what doesn't.

Blue Wolf · Post by **Blue Wolf** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 6:14 am

Not whp, just hp. I know 500whp would be a bitch to get to, and don't feel like doin that, that's too much. Just 500hp. About how much whp is 500hp? Around 3-400? Not sure how that really figures out, but I know whp is less than hp, because it's power at the wheels, instead of power at the crank.

JustRob · Post by **JustRob** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 6:16 am

Blue Wolf;55484 wrote:Not whp, just hp. I know 500whp would be a bitch to get to, and don't feel like doin that, that's too much. Just 500hp. About how much whp is 500hp? Around 3-400?

Don't bother measuring your motor in horsepower to the crank. Just talk in terms of wheel horsepower, its easier. So, what kind of whp are you wanting?

Blue Wolf · Post by **Blue Wolf** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 6:20 am

Ok. 3-400whp. 400 seems a bit much, maybe 350? Yeah, somewhere between 300 and 350whp would be nice.

JustRob · Post by **JustRob** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 6:23 am

Blue Wolf;55488 wrote:Ok. 3-400whp. 400 seems a bit much, maybe 350? Yeah, somewhere between 300 and 350whp would be nice.

300whp is probably a better number to shoot for. Since your shooting for 300+, I'm guessing your wanting to turbo it or throw on some spray, right?