K series oil pans... More than you would think. (K24 / K20)

99BlackHatch · Post by **99BlackHatch** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:31 pm

After a friend of mine cracked their oil pan the other night, I figured I would do some research... Remember, it's never bad to more about what you don't know.

The common question...
I was just wondering, is the k24 oil pan steel? or is it the same as the k20a2 oil pan? and also would a k24 oil pan fit on a k20a2? thanks

Either of the oil pans will work, but the RSX Type-S part is cast aluminum vs. the K24's stamped-steel part. The cast pan is stiffer and braces the pan to the transmission bell housing, making it the better choice. You should also use the full-length windage tray from the K20A2, which will do a better job keeping the oil where it needs to be. The K24 uses a pair of balance shafts cleverly incorporated into the oil pump assembly ("pump holder set" in Honda-speak), but you don't need their extra weight or the friction required to turn them. Hasport recommends ditching the K24 oil pump assembly in favor of the simpler K20A2 part.

Stamped steel on the left, Cast aluminum on the right...

Looks like the RSX Type S cast aluminum pan is a good choice in some aspects, due to it being slightly baffled and it bolts up to the tranny housing to help brace it more...But for lowered cars / slammed cars, a CRV steel K24 oil pan works very well for easy fixing / replacement due to it being able to be hammered out if needed, and there is enough clearance for the oil pump. And at $35 / piece, a pretty cheap repair.

The question regarding this was that the oil pump form the K20 sits right on the K24 oil pan...

This is a Steel K24 oil pan mounted on a K20A2, Stock oil pump and K24 Pan. This shows the tight clearances between the K20A2 pump pickup and the K24 Steel pan. You can see that there's dimples on the bottom of the pump to prevent it from literally sucking itself to the bottom of the pan, there's literally 1mm of clearance between them and the bottom of the pan. I did measure the RSX-S Pan and K24 Stamped Steel pan for internal height differences and the RSX-S Aluminum pan is just shy of 1/4" Deeper than the K24 Stamped Steel pan.

Also mentioned was running a oil pressure gauge for lowered cars in-case you nail that rare tennis ball sized rock in the road and lose pressure and you don't realize it until too late. And shit, at $35 a piece, buy an extra gasket and an extra pan and keep it in the trunk for a backup.

All research was gathered from...
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=866
http://k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59336&page=2
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40161

99BlackHatch · Post by **99BlackHatch** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:32 pm

Also, another thing to note is that the oil pan bolts are different. Many people have had problems running the K24 pan on a K20 block, but the bolts are too long and they will not get the pan flush with the block.

If you do run a setup like this, then make sure you get the correct oil pan bolts as well.

ryansDc5 · Post by **ryansDc5** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:41 pm

Good write up Josh.

99BlackHatch · Post by **99BlackHatch** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:48 pm

I figured I'm gonna be doing "K" swaps and "J" swaps now... I might as well pick up on the small IMPORTANT stuff...

ryansDc5 · Post by **ryansDc5** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:00 pm

Yeah, gather all the knowledge you can, I'm sure it'll all pay off in the long run

Phate · Post by **Phate** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:26 pm

99BlackHatch;207085 wrote:Also, another thing to note is that the oil pan bolts are different. Many people have had problems running the K24 pan on a K20 block, but the bolts are too long and they will not get the pan flush with the block.

If you do run a setup like this, then make sure you get the correct oil pan bolts as well.

If you dont already have a account on k20a.org, I'd get one. Thats where I've been hanging out the past.. month. lol. Great bunch of dudes. I've learned a shit ton/ got hookups on parts/ blah blah.