what the deal?

[J8k'S CRX]

so why do we buy bolt ons when they do nothing? i can't understand why we buy i/h/e when we get nothing but a better sound. they don't improve your 1320, nor do they even put down nunbers (as far as i know) if someone can prove me other wise.... pleasedo so. becuse i feel like i wasted 700+ dollars on a header and catback, when the stock shit works all the same. i think my car would performe all the same if i would have never bought those items. then i would have that money and i could almost have some cams and gears in my car instead i have an exhaust system that is just getting on my last nerve.maybe im just jaded at this point i do not know, could just be taht im pissed off,idk.

[Spork]

they help AFTER bigger mods are added...

[JustRob]

Your absolutly right, they do nothing to a stock motor with no tuning. Why do you think I run my car with a stock I/H/E setup? That sucks that you paid $700 for that stuff.

[J8k'S CRX]

Your absolutly right, they do nothing to a stock motor with no tuning. Why do you think I run my car with a stock I/H/E setup? That sucks that you paid $700 for that stuff.

troof!

[J8k'S CRX]

they help AFTER bigger mods are added...

so if i had different cams and gears, fuel rail and shit to go with my walbro and maybe some sort of tune then my header and cat back would do something?

[Spork]

I believe that the 'type-r' cars all came with 2.25in exhaust from the factory... must be some reason for that. you might not get the gains with just cams, but if you start raising compression and actually building the motor, you won't want the stock i/h/e set-up

[N2HIFI]

well replacing your fuel pump was a waste of money .. most guys who are boosted still run the oem pump .. so yea that was a waste. A fuel rail with a stock injector is a waste ( the only reason to run a aftermarket rail is for aftermarket injectors which use a larger O-ring). Cam gears are usless unless you have cams and supporting head work to provide more airflow to make more power.

Most aftermarket parts work better then OEM BUT you have to make sure you buy the right ones and that they work together and then if you have enuff mods you will need tuning. Like running a intake and complete exhaust (header back) will allow the car to make more power but if your using a stock fuel curve non of that will make a difference.

Also you have to remeber also that as you make power you run into more traction issues.. so if you cant put this new power to the ground it does not mean crap.

look at my car or jessie's or jeffs, all of our cars run great on the street but run iffy at the track because we all have traction issues. Put slicks on the cars and they would probley be ALOt quicker but slicks are even more $$$ to spend.

If you want to go fast for no mods then you need to buy a f-body



chris

[90CivicEx]

Your header back will allow it to breathe better, yeah it gives a nice tone but more add on's will bring out more power. Usually cars that are stock only gain like at most untuned about 10hp with full exhaust, to get the power levels they claim you need other minor bolt on's and a tune to bring it to it's full potential. Give your car time to adapt to the minor bolt on's you put on cause your ecu has to take some time to figure it out on it's own.

Took my car about a month after doing full exhaust to start showing the effects of putting new exhaust on but then again I barely drove it so it shouldn't take you that long.

Also I heard about you at the track running 14.9 which is good for the mods you have plus i heard your car is a 91 which makes it like 300lbs heavyer then mine but seriously drive it for a couple weeks and gradually raise your rpm's then go run it again cause I seriously think you will see 14.5 your next pass depending on how well you come out the hole.

Some people might not think what I said was true but I always run my car a bit after I do mods then take it to the track.

[Spork]

Your header back will allow it to breathe better, yeah it gives a nice tone but more add on's will bring out more power. Usually cars that are stock only gain like at most untuned about 10hp with full exhaust, to get the power levels they claim you need other minor bolt on's and a tune to bring it to it's full potential. Give your car time to adapt to the minor bolt on's you put on cause your ecu has to take some time to figure it out on it's own.

Took my car about a month after doing full exhaust to start showing the effects of putting new exhaust on but then again I barely drove it so it shouldn't take you that long.

Also I heard about you at the track running 14.9 which is good for the mods you have plus i heard your car is a 91 which makes it like 300lbs heavyer then mine but seriously drive it for a couple weeks and gradually raise your rpm's then go run it again cause I seriously think you will see 14.5 your next pass depending on how well you come out the hole.

Some people might not think what I said was true but I always run my car a bit after I do mods then take it to the track.

he's had the mods for a while now... he just finally broke into the 14's this week, he's been running low 15 sec. passes the past few months

[90CivicEx]

hmmm, I had a 2.3 60 foot shifting at 7100rpms and 7300rpms and ran 14.7 at 93.30. Had short shift it cause my tires were blowing off in first gear and part of second but it does that on the street, but all I have is a clutch and flywheel and cai. But then again I am 300lbs lighter then him, but his car should be full out with a 2.3 60 foot a mid 14's car. Also if his new exhaust setup is stainless then its alot lighter then the stock exhaust that was on there which would be better and it disapate's heat faster. If I was him I would take the header off and wrap it so the engine bay stays cool and keeps the exhaust temps in the wrap cause that helps out alot.