does anyone have an extra bolt laying around???

[TurboFreak]

you should of used pb blaster on there and let it soak before you attempted that, your gonna have lots of fun now buddy

[stolle]

justin you were trying to take out the wrong bolt, you need to remove the two 14mm bolts on the car side. You never try to remove a bolt that MAY possibly be siezed like the one you broke the bolt on, always remove the one that bolts directly to the car. Don't worry about replacing it because it will never fall out and will be to much of a pain in the ass to remove


chris

wow, thats some of the worst advice i have heard in awhile. it will never fall out but in the course of driving your car the tabs around the bolt will spread the one side of the bolt with no head will pop out destroying the whole trailing arm. and possibly causing a fiery wreck in the process. dont mess around with things that hold wheels on fix it right.

theres a couple different ways to go about repairing this:
1. cut the control arm off on the inside going trough the steel collar of the bushing and the bolt being careful not to harm the trailing arm. this should free the control arm and ruin it so get another control arm. use some penetrating lube some heat and vise grips to remove the rest of the old bolt from the trailing arm get a new bolt lube it up with some grease before putting it back in (i use brake caliper grease works pretty good)

2. cut the rest of the old bolt and nut off as close as you can to the trailing arm and finish by grinding it down to the trailing arm being careful not to go too far but far enough to remove the nut this will free your control arm. put the control arm in a vise and use a hammer, punch and some heat to get the bolt out of the bushing not too much heat or you will ruin the rubber bushing. get a new bolt and use a nut from a upper spring/strut cup not sure what they are called its a 14mm nut with a washer attached i have a few laying around there are other nuts you can use thats just one thats easy to come by and dont forget to lube the bolt up with a some grease...

[stolle]

Get on the back of it and break the "welded" nut off... Go to home depot and get a matching nut and bolt for what you need and hell while you're at it, get money somehow and buy LCAs and throw them on!

:biggrin:

this only works on LCA's

chris

i dont know why it would work only for LCA's, i would imagine this method would work anywhere there was room for another nut or a means of removing the damaged one. in fact i dont think any of the nuts on my rear suspension are original they are all knocked off or ground off and replaced with just a regular nut and bolt...

[N2HIFI]

wow, thats some of the worst advice i have heard in awhile. it will never fall out but in the course of driving your car the tabs around the bolt will spread the one side of the bolt with no head will pop out destroying the whole trailing arm. and possibly causing a fiery wreck in the process. dont mess around with things that hold wheels on fix it right.

theres a couple different ways to go about repairing this:
1. cut the control arm off on the inside going trough the steel collar of the bushing and the bolt being careful not to harm the trailing arm. this should free the control arm and ruin it so get another control arm. use some penetrating lube some heat and vise grips to remove the rest of the old bolt from the trailing arm get a new bolt lube it up with some grease before putting it back in (i use brake caliper grease works pretty good)

2. cut the rest of the old bolt and nut off as close as you can to the trailing arm and finish by grinding it down to the trailing arm being careful not to go too far but far enough to remove the nut this will free your control arm. put the control arm in a vise and use a hammer, punch and some heat to get the bolt out of the bushing not too much heat or you will ruin the rubber bushing. get a new bolt and use a nut from a upper spring/strut cup not sure what they are called its a 14mm nut with a washer attached i have a few laying around there are other nuts you can use thats just one thats easy to come by and dont forget to lube the bolt up with a some grease...

Guess you did not notice that this bolt that he broke the head off of was and is not on the Control arm at all, he broke the head off of the bolt on the trailing arm, the bolt is the top one where you would mount the rear camber kit on his car. There is NO rear nut on the trailing arms where this bolt is located so he would have to drill it out and then have to replace the whole arm and then obviously the bolt also. But why go through all that trouble when obviously the bolts not coming out in the first place it has fused itself with the bushing as ALL hondas do over time and it is also not in a area where its would work its way loose over time, and the tabs will not spread out because on the back side where the bolt goes is a threaded nipple that molded into the trailing arm thus preventing that from being a possibility.

You talk about bad advice being given, its his car and if he can not figure out how to fix what he broke while working on the car then maybe he should have not started something that he can not finish simple as that.


chris

[N2HIFI]

i dont know why it would work only for LCA's, i would imagine this method would work anywhere there was room for another nut or a means of removing the damaged one. in fact i dont think any of the nuts on my rear suspension are original they are all knocked off or ground off and replaced with just a regular nut and bolt...

i originally showed josh this method on how to fix control arm bushings but the problem with justins car is that on the trailing arm where the broken bolt is, the bolt threads into the trailing arm itself it has a threaded nipple on it which would cause more trouble then its worth to try and remove to get the bolt free. It would be ALOt easier just to replace the whole trailing arm and adjuster.

[bildo16]

lol, you guys are awesome. some words of advice, never try doing suspension work on an old car without a torch being handy. they work wonders.

[HondaChild]

Thanks everybody for the advice, I wa swondering if it would work if I just took an air chisle to the bolt and chisle it out, I'll probley end up ruining the threads so then I would just take a bolt and run it through there with a lock nut and washer on the end of it and put it there. would that work at all? I would like to have my car drivable by tuesday so that I can take my license test in it. Thanks agian for the advice.


-Justin

[N2HIFI]

the car will be fine to drive for now it's not like your going to be out racing it in the baja desert.


chris

[JustRob]

OK, heres all you need to fix this. As N2HIFI said, get the BLOX Rear Camber Kit from JHPUSA.com. Its 104.86 shipped by UPS ground. While your waiting for the camber kit, drill out the broken bolt. You will probably mess up the threads while doing this, so you'll probably have to rethread the hole and us a grade A bolt from Home Depot. If your not wanting to buy the camber kit, just order the outer bushing for the upper control arm from Ed Napelton, it will be about $18.45 and may take a few days to get.

[stolle]

Guess you did not notice that this bolt that he broke the head off of was and is not on the Control arm at all, he broke the head off of the bolt on the trailing arm, the bolt is the top one where you would mount the rear camber kit on his car. There is NO rear nut on the trailing arms where this bolt is located so he would have to drill it out and then have to replace the whole arm and then obviously the bolt also. But why go through all that trouble when obviously the bolts not coming out in the first place it has fused itself with the bushing as ALL hondas do over time and it is also not in a area where its would work its way loose over time, and the tabs will not spread out because on the back side where the bolt goes is a threaded nipple that molded into the trailing arm thus preventing that from being a possibility.

You talk about bad advice being given, its his car and if he can not figure out how to fix what he broke while working on the car then maybe he should have not started something that he can not finish simple as that.


chris

i know the exact bolt he broke off believe me i have delt with it many times and its not that big a deal to fix and its not safe to drive even if he isnt going to be racing around. i guess it would be the upper control arm then sorry i didnt specify either way the same concept the nut is spot welded to the trailing arm not "molded" its easy to cut off or grind off or even knock off with an air chisel i have done it many times. with the head of the the bolt missing the stamped steel of the trailing arm will spread the one side of the bushing with the nut will bend back and forth till it breaks off its common sense. i could have that thing fixed on the car in less than an hour shit less than 30 minutes if i had an upper control arm its simple bullshit that i have been dealing with ever since the first time i touched honda. and you want him to replace the whole trailing arm? thats ridiculous...