camber angle question

bildo16 · Post by **bildo16** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 1:48 am

getteg;101630 wrote:So who makes a good camber kit. I personaly am planning on going with SK2 adjustable coilovers. Would their camber kits be good?

im not sure on the price of sk2 coilovers, but i would def look into ground control/koni setup. soooooo many people are running this setup over full coilovers. i havent yet heard anything bad about the sk2 camber kit. for the rear on most old hondas, you dont need a camber kit. you can place washers behind the upper arm (not sure on exact name) and substitue your stock bolts with longer ones.

risktypes · Post by **risktypes** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 2:27 am

to be honest you really don't need a camber kit unlesss you are rollin on negative camber from hell and it makes your car look like complete ass. What eats at your tires is the TOE and that can be corrected with an alignment no matter how low you are.

bildo16 · Post by **bildo16** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 5:18 am

risktypes;101641 wrote:to be honest you really don't need a camber kit unlesss you are rollin on negative camber from hell and it makes your car look like complete ass. What eats at your tires is the TOE and that can be corrected with an alignment no matter how low you are.

on some vehicles, if you go to low you cannot correct the toe without changin out your outer tie rod ends. dc5/ep3's are like this since the are macpherson strut type setups. if you dont correct your camber after lowering it, your car will potentially handle like crap. before i corrected my rear camber after lowering my car, if i took a sharp turn my rear tires would squeal and it would nearly slide out. that was with 2 degrees negative camber out back, now it is perfect after installing my camber kit.

ObsesionWitSped · Post by **ObsesionWitSped** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 5:29 am

bildo16;101489 wrote:i would agree with you, but if you enjoy a little spirited driving, than factory specs arent always the best route. they are designed for minimal tire wear and "regular" driving. i checked out a few forums before i aligned my car and found that most people who dd their cars and enjoy holding the road rolled with a full degree negative all the way up to a degree and a half negative up front; and in the rear between a half to three quarters negative; as much caster as you can magically get; and zero toe. every car will react different to this setup, so if you notice your tires showing a little "feathering" across them, then your toe will need to be readjusted. if you say that the neg camber will show wear, you are wrong. if you rotate your tires like you should (every 6k) you will never notice that negative camber. when you buy a camber kit, spend the money for a good kit, research it and dont settle for anything but the best. an alignment cost 70-90 dollars, you dont want to waste that much because you skimped on a camber kit that wont stay tight or doesnt give you enough adjustment.:duel:

Wouldn't too much positive caster increase your steering effort??

risktypes · Post by **risktypes** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 9:18 am

bildo16;101654 wrote:on some vehicles, if you go to low you cannot correct the toe without changin out your outer tie rod ends. dc5/ep3's are like this since the are macpherson strut type setups. if you dont correct your camber after lowering it, your car will potentially handle like crap. before i corrected my rear camber after lowering my car, if i took a sharp turn my rear tires would squeal and it would nearly slide out. that was with 2 degrees negative camber out back, now it is perfect after installing my camber kit.

My last type S i was lowered to about 1 1/2 with a -1.5ish camber around and had a toe of almost 0 with stock outer tie rods after it was aligned without a camber kit. Had no problems with it since then until i wrecked the car then it didn't matter if i had -200 camber (if it were possible, i think those are called hover crafts. lol). If you're trying to go for a super slammed ride then yeah you'll need a camber kit but that's kinda ridiculious. You're not going 200mph + constantly to where you need to be kissing the ground to make a difference. That's just retarded.

My current rsx, i don't know how low it is because i bought it like that, but i just got an alignment and had no problems getting the toe corrected then again i'm not slammed like i was to be sitting on the ground.

to the person who said spending 70-90 bucks for an alignment, go to a shop that does it for a lifetime warranty deal. Then you can lower, raise, whatever and get an alignment for free.

Don't think you can get away with lowering it just a little more after an alignment. You'll have to get another alignment if you touch it again, raising or lowering. All in all camber kits are not a detrimental peice needed.

TurboFreak · Post by **TurboFreak** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 2:04 pm

i can vouch for bill doing alignments... hes the only person i trust to touch my cars

bildo16 · Post by **bildo16** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 4:20 pm

ObsesionWitSped;101656 wrote:Wouldn't too much positive caster increase your steering effort??

caster is like free camber while turning. it really helps you carve as you turn. but just like camber, too much is a bad thing. if you have too much caster, you lose straight line stability. you will notice your vehicle drifting back and forth on the highway (speed magnifies it drastically). realistically, without a sick suspension setup, you couldnt get too much positive caster out of your vehicle. you would need caster plates along with your camber plates. the further your strut angle tilts to the back, the more caster you get. its basically impossible to change caster on 99% of strut type vehicles. you can get a little adjustment by shifting the cradle forward, but thats minimal.

bildo16 · Post by **bildo16** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 4:23 pm

risktypes;101669 wrote:My last type S i was lowered to about 1 1/2 with a -1.5ish camber around and had a toe of almost 0 with stock outer tie rods after it was aligned without a camber kit. Had no problems with it since then until i wrecked the car then it didn't matter if i had -200 camber (if it were possible, i think those are called hover crafts. lol). If you're trying to go for a super slammed ride then yeah you'll need a camber kit but that's kinda ridiculious. You're not going 200mph + constantly to where you need to be kissing the ground to make a difference. That's just retarded.

My current rsx, i don't know how low it is because i bought it like that, but i just got an alignment and had no problems getting the toe corrected then again i'm not slammed like i was to be sitting on the ground.

to the person who said spending 70-90 bucks for an alignment, go to a shop that does it for a lifetime warranty deal. Then you can lower, raise, whatever and get an alignment for free.

Don't think you can get away with lowering it just a little more after an alignment. You'll have to get another alignment if you touch it again, raising or lowering. All in all camber kits are not a detrimental peice needed.

i like having control over all aspects of my suspension, plus i am so much lower than stock i HAD to have a camber kit. i could still go about an inch lower in front, but not without inverting my tie rod ends. when dc5's and ep3's are lowered, the rear suffers more than the front (camber) so i would say without "slamming" a car, you wouldnt require a camber kit. just rotate those tires.

Nat X · Post by **Nat X** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 9:55 pm

All hail Bill, he is alignment master

Sleepy Civic DX · Post by **Sleepy Civic DX** » Fri Mar 14, 2008 8:19 pm

bildo16;101637 wrote:im not sure on the price of sk2 coilovers, but i would def look into ground control/koni setup. soooooo many people are running this setup over full coilovers. i havent yet heard anything bad about the sk2 camber kit. for the rear on most old hondas, you dont need a camber kit. you can place washers behind the upper arm (not sure on exact name) and substitue your stock bolts with longer ones.

I can vouch I have skunk2 upper control arms with poly bushings and the pro series ball joint. The quality is top notch. I used to have a spc adj. balljoint pressed into my stock control arm. it never came loose (on the adjustment side). but sometimes was a pain in the ass to adjust and the ball joint (not the lock nut) eventually became very loose.

I have SPC EZ-Arms in the rear and have had those for 4 years on 2 different cars with no problems.