CEL and ECU Questions.

[lagwagon21]

First, this is on my 93 EG JDM B16A.

Have this CEL thats supposed to be for the knock sensor. I checked the pin on my P30, it was in there pretty good, the wire was good, probably bad KS. I still haven't checked the code. I tried and the CE light only comes on after running for a good 20 minutes or so, then when I shut the car off to jump the connector and switch the key on again, the light will stay off, because it never comes on until the engine is FULLY WARM, not almost, but fully. So, I can't tell how to check it.

Also, the motor has started idleing up, and down just a bit at idle, and I really want to get it tuned if it is indeed running rich. Since I'm a noob at messing with an ecu. I need some advice. I know that I already have a P30 ecu. But, I might be able to get ahold of a socketed P28?? (trading pellet rifle,lol).

So..
What would I have to do with the P28 once I got it? Or, would I be better off tuning the P30 I already have? Which option would be cheaper.lol
Thanks and sorry for rambling..

[JustRob]

First, do this while the car is running and the CEL is on. http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/how-to/celcheck/

I didn't catch it in your post. But if the code is still for the Knock Sensor, check to make sure it's has the right plug on the KS, that it's completely plugged in or if it's there at all.



Next, if your idle surge is still happening. Do this. http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1844067

And you really don't need to buy another ECU. Either would do just fine. You can get the ECU chipped here. http://www.phearable.net/ecutuning.html

Another thing to keep in mind is that if the KS is in fact bad, it can be disabled once the ECU is chipped.

Good luck.

[lagwagon21]

Got the code today, it is the KS, code 23. I checked all connections, and the pin on the ecu. everything seems ok. Maybe the KS is bad.

I figured if I can get that P28, it is already socketed and ready to go. Wouldn't it cost more to have my P30 chipped and then tuned?

Thanks for the link on the TB, I am going to do that on Sunday.

[Boosted_da]

Got the code today, it is the KS, code 23. I checked all connections, and the pin on the ecu. everything seems ok. Maybe the KS is bad.

I figured if I can get that P28, it is already socketed and ready to go. Wouldn't it cost more to have my P30 chipped and then tuned?

Thanks for the link on the TB, I am going to do that on Sunday.

the p30 is a vtec ecu so no its the same process

[lagwagon21]

So the P28 is not vtec? I thought it was plug n play on the B16. If I get the P28 ecu, he said he could put a base on it, and I can get it tuned from there. I would also still have my P30 also. I could save up and ship it off to be chipped.

[Boosted_da]

So the P28 is not vtec? I thought it was plug n play on the B16. If I get the P28 ecu, he said he could put a base on it, and I can get it tuned from there. I would also still have my P30 also. I could save up and ship it off to be chipped.

the p28 will work only if you have the corect base map on it but yes it will work and its vtec capable

[lagwagon21]

Ok, so I am going to pick up this P28. He said he could burn a base map on it. At least from there it's tunable.

Thanks again.

[lagwagon21]

First, do this while the car is running and the CEL is on. http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/how-to/celcheck/

I didn't catch it in your post. But if the code is still for the Knock Sensor, check to make sure it's has the right plug on the KS, that it's completely plugged in or if it's there at all.



Next, if your idle surge is still happening. Do this. http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1844067

And you really don't need to buy another ECU. Either would do just fine. You can get the ECU chipped here. http://www.phearable.net/ecutuning.html

Another thing to keep in mind is that if the KS is in fact bad, it can be disabled once the ECU is chipped.

Good luck.

I cleaned everything that that link said to and I had to tighten that valve 3 full turns! After I reset the ecu, I let it run until the fan kicked on then I shut it off. When I started the car, it was idleing around 1k so I adjusted the idle screw all the way down, it still idles around 850. It really does seem to start up quicker, and so far it has not jumped up to 2k when I start it. I will let it cool down and start it again and see what it does. I checked the timing also and it is just about right on the middle line. Does anyone know which way would I need to go to retard it a little?

Thanks, Chad

[JustRob]

I cleaned everything that that link said to and I had to tighten that valve 3 full turns! After I reset the ecu, I let it run until the fan kicked on then I shut it off. When I started the car, it was idleing around 1k so I adjusted the idle screw all the way down, it still idles around 850. It really does seem to start up quicker, and so far it has not jumped up to 2k when I start it. I will let it cool down and start it again and see what it does. I checked the timing also and it is just about right on the middle line. Does anyone know which way would I need to go to retard it a little?

Thanks, Chad

Rotate the distributor, top to the front, to retard timing.

[RyanA]

Actually, top to the front retards on a B. Back advances. Lots of good info in the thread, Rob.