Ecm Question

sn95guy · Post by **sn95guy** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:14 am

ok so i was told when i picked up my hatch it has a auto computer in it thats why it runs ruff. well the code is 37820 p06 L51 743 210484 ara, and i can get one thtas 37820 p06 a02 740 757418 au1, would it make a difference for the swap?

tommygun89hb · Post by **tommygun89hb** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:42 am

if you have a 5 speed car then you should really be using a 5 speed ecu

the best ecu out there is a p28 i doesnt need a knock sensor to run so you can use it with just about any motor plus it wired for vtec.

so as you get more and more into the hobby then you will have an ecu to use with motor swaps as you grow

sn95guy · Post by **sn95guy** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 2:00 am

well is my pcm in there now for a 5spd? the guy said it was a auto computer but he didnt really know much about it cus he didnt do the swap

LowePerf · Post by **LowePerf** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:28 am

sn95guy;112393 wrote:well is my pcm in there now for a 5spd? the guy said it was a auto computer but he didnt really know much about it cus he didnt do the swap

No, it's an auto ECU. The 37820 p06 a02 is a M/T ECU. I doubt it will make much difference in the way it runs though.
-John

N2HIFI · Post by **N2HIFI** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:40 am

sn95guy;112386 wrote:ok so i was told when i picked up my hatch it has a auto computer in it thats why it runs ruff. well the code is 37820 p06 L51 743 210484 ara, and i can get one thtas 37820 p06 a02 740 757418 au1, would it make a difference for the swap?

hondata wrote:
First, let's find out if we have an automatic, or a 5 speed ECU. If you don't want to plug it in and throw code 19 (automatic trans lockup solenoid) to find out it is an automatic ECU, then look at the code on the side. If the second to last number is a 5, then you have an automatic ECU (for OBD-1 USDM ECUs). If the 2nd to last # is anything but a five you have an ECU for a 5 speed. If you have a jdm obd-1 ecu, look at the last 3 digits: 900 or 901 will be an automatic. If you were unfortunate enough to get an automatic ECU, then read on and learn how to cure all your problems.

The following information was all obtained from Hondata.com .

Post by **stolle** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:42 am

LowePerf;112424 wrote:I doubt it will make much difference in the way it runs though.
-John

werd, you may get a torque converter lock up code, but should still run fine, not only that converting the auto p06 to a manual p06 ecu is easy as pie...and i like pie...

sn95guy · Post by **sn95guy** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 4:27 am

N2HIFI;112428 wrote:The following information was all obtained from Hondata.com .

i cant find that on hondata... can you post the link... and also should i get the 5spd ecm? my car is having alot of sputtering problems when going into gear, and cutting out...

5thgen · Post by **5thgen** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 5:43 am

all that is needed to convert to manual is a resistor (maybe 2) need to be (re)moved.

might as well chip it if you do that....and use a free tuning program for a honda.

N2HIFI · Post by **N2HIFI** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 5:55 am

sn95guy;112435 wrote:i cant find that on hondata... can you post the link... and also should i get the 5spd ecm? my car is having alot of sputtering problems when going into gear, and cutting out...

so did you EVEN BOTHER reading the above supplied information? you ecu is NOT a automatic SO you don't need to do anything .. your rough running issues are not related to the ecu .. but what you need to do no matter what is to figure out why your check engine light is on.. this will tell you more info then just guessing randomly

Way to check codes on your 92-95 civic.
If you go to passanger side kick panel and raise up the carpet u sould see your ecu. and above your ECU there will be a lil plug. iIts grey. with 2 wires coming out of it. One wire is black with a white stripe and the other is a red with a black strip.. I take a spare piece of thin speaker wire and cut off both ends so that the actual copper of the wire is showion on both ends. i twist up both ends so that they are in a nice point. stick one end of the wire into the fist socket on the plug. The other end of the wire into the other socket. Turn your key to the ON position.. dont start your car. just to the ON position. Watch your check engine light on your cluster. it will flash.. 1 long flash is 10. the quick flashes are one. so if ur CEL goes !.....!!! that is a code 13. !....!....!!!!! code 25. then take the code #'s and hop on this thread and see what it is. i hope i could help you all.

list of codes is here

http://stlhondas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15

N2HIFI · Post by **N2HIFI** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:00 am

5thgen;112454 wrote:all that is needed to convert to manual is a resistor (maybe 2) need to be (re)moved.

might as well chip it if you do that....and use a free tuning program for a honda.

How to convert an automatic ECU to 5 speed specs

For Jdm Pr3/Pw0 ECUs:
Move the jumper from R68 to R67 (both locations are to the left of the ROM)

For USDM OBD1 ECUs (p28):
Underneath the ROM there is a row of resistors labelled with RP__ . Remove RP17 and install a jumper across RP18.

For JDM OBD1 ECUs:
RP18 (in the same location as usdm) needs to be lowered in value from 2.4k to 1.4k ohms.