y7 to y8 mani TROUBLE

bemberg2 · Post by **bemberg2** » Fri May 28, 2010 12:53 am

would a bad gasket make it idle like that? (starts out kinda high then goes up and down and won't quit)

90CivicEx · Post by **90CivicEx** » Fri May 28, 2010 1:17 am

It would make the car rough to start and idle high because the increase in air being sucked in after the injectors.

You should just buy a new gasket and go from there put it on torque the bolts down start it let it warm up and retorque the bolts in the usual star pattern to insure the seal.

bemberg2 · Post by **bemberg2** » Fri May 28, 2010 1:35 am

but would that make it rhythmically rev? that sounds like an ecu problem or something? MIDORI, where are those holes you mentioned? do i need to remove the injectors to see them cause i don't see little holes from the outside near them? thanks.

90CivicEx · Post by **90CivicEx** » Fri May 28, 2010 4:54 am

Here check these out these will help you install and do it properly.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-b ... -pics.html

Also reading up on it that theres a difference in the IACV that the y7 has 3 wire a manual y8 IACV has 2 wire and a automatic IACV froma y8 is 3 wire.

Also reading on other forums that theres a hidden part to this that the y8 manifold has a cruise vacuum outlet on the back driverside of the manifold and if its not plugged it will give shitty idle and rev all retarded.

those taken from this thread.
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=575002

HondaChild · Post by **HondaChild** » Fri May 28, 2010 4:51 pm

I ran an automatic Y8 manifold on my Y7 with no problem. I didn't have to change over any wiring or anything. I still have itif you like it. If you can come and get We can try putting it on at my house.

bemberg2 · Post by **bemberg2** » Sat May 29, 2010 7:17 pm

thanks for the heads up all, and hondachild i'll let you know if this new gasket doesnt do the trick, then i'll definitely take you up on that offer.

bemberg2 · Post by **bemberg2** » Sat Jun 05, 2010 1:49 pm

bump. UPDATE AT TOP. need help.

Post by **stolle** » Sat Jun 05, 2010 2:59 pm

jump the service plug, unplug the iacv and start the car, turn on all aceesories, headlights, a/c/blower motor etc. if it dies open up the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body its around the area of the map sensor might have a rubber plug over it, its a flat head screw, adjust it untill the car idles around 6-800 rpm. turn car off, turn off all accessories remove jumper from service plug and plug you iacv back. start the car, see what happens.

bemberg2 · Post by **bemberg2** » Sat Jun 05, 2010 3:03 pm

ok ill give that a GO once i put all this back on. what about those photos, are those holes going to be a problem? THANKS

Post by **stolle** » Sat Jun 05, 2010 3:42 pm

bemberg2;235055 wrote:ok ill give that a GO once i put all this back on. what about those photos, are those holes going to be a problem? THANKS

any vacuum ports that dont go to anything, like the canister brake booster etc. need to be plugged. its an obd2 car so you have to have the canister and purge cut solenoid hooked up properly. should be a vacuum diagram on a sticker under your hood. should be pretty self explanitory try to hook up everything like it was on the y7 intake anything left as far as vacuum ports need to capped off. the procedure i posted before is setting your base idle it should always be done whenever you swap an intake or throttle body i have done it many times and unless there is some other problem, it fixes the idle surge.