Need some swap help

tj87 · Post by **tj87** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 5:53 am

I just got finished dropping a D15B7 into my 1991 LX civic using a P06 ecu.
I did the DPFI to MPFI conversion and bought an OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness.
The first time i fired the car up it threw a code 16 and was running in limp mode.
It was cutting the fuel at 2000 rpms.
I went back and swapped the two wires i had run from the ECU for the two extra injectors.
When doing the wiring my dumb ass had cut the tags off of both the wires at the same time so i had to kind of guess which wire was which.
After swapping the two wires i fired the car up again and got 5 codes this time. The car is still running in limp mode.
The codes i am getting are:
Code 3 - MAP sensor code
Code 6 - Coolant Temperature
Code 7 - TPS sensor
Code 9 - CYP
Code 14 - IAC valve

I used the MAP sensor that is on the throttle body and the wiring that was already on the car.
I swapped the plugs for the TPS and IAC valve and started the car up again. It gave me the same codes.
This tells me that the problem is nothing to do with my wiring but that i missed a ground or something somewhere. It seems like the sensors are not getting the needed power or something.

Is there a grounding wire that would cause this?
Or is there something else that i may have missed in the swap?

Also i heard and saw the engine run in the car it came out of before i bought. It ran fine at the time.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Spork · Post by **Spork** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 6:03 am

dont you have to switch a couple wires for the IACV plug to make it read correctly? did you use one color for all the wires you added? I don't know your skill level as far as wiring goes, or how you did it, thats why I ask.

I did a b16a swap and mpfi swap and spent 2 days building a 1pc harness with connectors at the firewall, all different colored wires, and everything so that it would be easy to trace and disconnect/reconnect down the road.
IIRC, I threw the code 9 and it ended up being the wire on the ECU harness not quite clipped in right. I sweated for a couple hours over all of the other wires before I found that.

N2HIFI · Post by **N2HIFI** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 6:05 am

check ground on the thermostat housing, and the ground at the tranny also

but you might have some wires out of wack

tps should be 3 wires and the iac should be 2 wires unless your using a motor out of a auto car which would have 3 wires and is a issue .. unless your car is a auto.

you possibly have the map and tps backwards but seeing as how the map wire for your car should be separate from the rest of the harness because it used to run to the fire wall mounted map. i dont think you have them backwards

the cyp is either a bad dizzy OR you have the two white wires switched at the dizzy when you did the dpfi to mpfi conversion also are you running a obd1 dizzy?

boxbodyblazer · Post by **boxbodyblazer** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 7:48 am

make it simple get an si dash underdash harness and everything that will run to the engine bay.

tj87 · Post by **tj87** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 3:35 pm

I only used three different colors of wires since i only had to run four wires from the ECU jumper harness to the engine.
2 for the injectors and 2 for the distributor.
The way i did my wiring way i soldered and put heat shrink on each connection and then wrapped them together with electrical tape.

I haven't heard anything about the IACV before i will have to research that.
I didn't modify the stock wiring for the IACV so that may be one of the problems.

I am running an OBD1 distributor. It is the one that came with the engine.
i used this pinout guide whenever i did the distributor wiring.
http://rywire.com/store/faqdesk_info.php?faqPath=3&faqdesk_id=14&osCsid=328aee1874b5055efd7c7a109376747d

Not sure if it is correct or not.
I used a micrometer to determine which of the wires on the OBD0 side was the fat one but on the OBD1 plug the white wires were the same so that is when i used the above link.

I will have to go back and make sure i have all the grounds hooked up.
The only ones i remember hooking up are the one on the thermostat housing and the two on the valve cover.

Oh by the way the car will idle by itself and doesn't die. However it idles at like 200 - 300 rpms. So i take that as sign that something is sorta working.

Thanks for the help so far guys i think i am going to take a few days from working on it so i don't get to angry with it.

Also forgot to say that i soldered on the OBD1 plug for the TPS as i had read that two of the wires were reversed from the OBD0 harness.
I have an entire D15B7 harness that i pulled off a car at Speedway.
I am also using the Purge solenoid that is mounted on the firewall not the one that is on the intake manifold.

JustRob · Post by **JustRob** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 4:22 pm

boxbodyblazer;186975 wrote:make it simple get an si dash underdash harness and everything that will run to the engine bay.

That is by far NOT the simple way.

tj87 · Post by **tj87** » Fri Jun 26, 2009 5:06 pm

Well now i am confused. I put a volt meter on the IACV last night and it is getting 11.98 volts when the key is turned on.
I was thinking that maybe it was not getting any power and that is why i was getting the code but that is not the case.
Does anyone know the wire colors for the IACV on a 91 civic lx harness?
I may have the connector switched with the IAT sensor.
Also is there a way to test if the ecu is bad?
I don't have access to another car with a D15B7 in it.
I bought the ecu off ebay so i am beginning to think i bought a bad ecu.

thanks for the help.

vtecaddict · Post by **vtecaddict** » Fri Jun 26, 2009 8:00 pm

your iacv/eacv wires for the lx are black/ yellow and blue/yellow. your IAT is red/yellow and grn/white. i would suggest also checking the fuses, if you had the injector wires reversed, it might have caused a fuse to pop, not totally sure if it would solve the problem though. the MAP, EACV, IAT and TPS are all controlled by 1 fuse it looks like from the wiring diagram.

tj87 · Post by **tj87** » Sat Jun 27, 2009 12:07 am

Awesome thanks i will have to check that out later on tonight.

tj87 · Post by **tj87** » Sat Jun 27, 2009 6:57 pm

Okay i checked all the fuses (engine bay and steering column boxes) and they are all good.
I looked at my IACV wires and the colors are black/yellow and Orange.
The IAT ones are green/yellow and red/yellow.
So i know the IAT is right but according to the info above one of my IACV wires is wrong but there are no more connectors laying around. This is on a manual car don't know if that make a difference.

I reset the ecu and checked the codes before i even fired up the car.
It is immediately giving me a code 1 and a code 6.
I triple checked all of my O2 sensor wiring and it all appears to be correct.
On the jumper harness that i got the wires are labeled as such:

Blue -> o2 sensor heater control
White -> O2 sensor signal
Red -> Power
Black -> Ground

on the OBD1 plug i soldered on these are the connections i made
OBD1 plug Jumper Harness

green/white black
orange/black blue
yellow/black red
white white

Now according to the ECU pinout diagram that i have all of the connections are correct.
With the voltmeter on the harness side plug i see that the O2 sensor is getting 11.98 volts which means it is getting power.

Is it possible that i have a bad ECU?
That is the only thing that i can think of.
I checked all of my grounds with a voltmeter too and they are all good.
I even cleaned all of the surface that they connect too.

Is there a way to test the ecu with a voltmeter or can i take it to a dealer to see if it is functioning properly?

Thanks