Belt Squeal/Power Loss Assistance

Jawsiiv · Post by **Jawsiiv** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:51 pm

Hey all,

Thanks in advance for all help.

I have two issues:

1) A belt, I suspect the Alternator, is whining. When I rev up i gets louder. Sometimes the whining stops, but when it does the battery light comes on in my cluster. Is the belt too tight?

2) Sometimes in 1st gear I am unable to power off, almost as if there is a delay. I have new injectors, plugs, wires, distributor and all these I put on when I swapped the head. It does not happen all the time, because sometimes I am riding fine and I finally can tell when Vtec kicks in. What could this issue be? Also i just ran Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner in there to see if it would clear the issue.

Thanks once again in advance.

SPoole · Post by **SPoole** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:54 pm

Is it possible that the alternator bearings are going out, and the alt is actually locking up? That could cause squeel, power loss, and charge light.

Jawsiiv · Post by **Jawsiiv** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 12:17 am

I just swapped at Z6 head on, and I had to take the belt off to do it. Would the taking off and putting on of the belt accelerate the bearings getting off. I do not see the alternator locking up. I rev the throttle and the insides are still spinning. I just found out the Belt is loose, which could be causing the squealing. Sounds like I am at the old Slaughter house in Venice...

Jawsiiv · Post by **Jawsiiv** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 1:26 am

Update, I tightened the alternator belt, but when I went to start it, it cranks for like 2 seconds and dies. There is power because lights, stereo and everything else work. Tried to jump it but still it will not turn over. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

JustRob · Post by **JustRob** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 2:49 am

Why did you have to take the alt. belt off to do a head swap? Sounds like the alt might be seized or seizing up. I'd pull the belt off and see if the alt. pulley spins freely.

Jawsiiv · Post by **Jawsiiv** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:04 am

to get the pulley out so that I could take the cover out to change the Timing Belt for the swap.

I also, figured out that it was the battery, but I am still working on the power issue, as it seems it does not "thrust" off like it should.

No CEL showing though.

mike93hatch · Post by **mike93hatch** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:20 am

how did you tension your timing belt? and are you sure its not a tooth off?

Jawsiiv · Post by **Jawsiiv** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:25 am

just like the Haynes Manual says

Belt on, loose with some slack, rotate the pulley counterclock wise, then tighten Tension bolt. The belt has some play to it, but I was told that was okay. Could it be that the tension is position to far up making it harder for the belt to rotate on its normal course?

mike93hatch · Post by **mike93hatch** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:51 am

no thats right.. once the belt gets hot it actually tightens up. thats why the honda tensioner when doing it the correct way leave it just a hair "loose"

mike93hatch · Post by **mike93hatch** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:56 am

here is what i think you need to do from reading what youve said..

1) get a new alt. belt. old shitty ones can become noisy.
2) get the alt. belt tensioned enough. aout 3/8" belt deflection should be good. sounds like you have it too loose because battery light is coming on.
3) sounds like you have the timing belt off a tooth considering you said its kinda doggy starting off. rotate the crank counterclockwise until the TDC mark on the pulley lines up to the pointer and check and make sure the cam gear markings are lined up flush with the head.
4) did you take the oil squirter out of your block before putting the z6 head on?
5) once you do all that, start it up and check the voltage at your battery. should be close to 14 volts.