Price Check- turbo parts

[MaSSaCrE]

Wanting some response on pricing for stuff that people sell used and etc no brand new things right off the website.

Garrett .50 trim turbo
Tial Bov
Type-S Bov
Tial Wgate
A Decent ramhorn any prices you know.

[JesSi]

Wanting some response on pricing for stuff that people sell used and etc no brand new things right off the website.

Garrett .50 trim turbo
Tial Bov
Type-S Bov
Tial Wgate
A Decent ramhorn any prices you know.

$250-400
$175-200
$120-180
$200-300
$350-500

You'll need more than those items, but you probably know that already.

[MaSSaCrE]

yah I know im just gonna knock some things outa the way now if possible

[Teg-Potential]

Sorry don't mean to intrude, but i didn't see a turbo info thread. I plan to turbo in about a month or so if i keep on my working path. And i have realized that i don't kno much about wat kind of turbo size is needed for wat. I understand how it works with forcing more air in and that in turn creates the HP. But i'm looking for which size turbo is good for a beginner, on a stock 1.8 B18 engine from my 2000 ls teg. I'm shootin for around 200whp if i can so thats like 80whp up from where i am. Idk if thats alot out of a small turbo (plz tell if it is). The engine has 108k miles on it now and rick tells me that its still in its prime lol (not sure if i believe him) . So if i could get a approx turbo size? and why that size or maybe a short explanation of turbo size. Also just some opinions of turbo pushin 200ish whp on a 108k mile motor???? Possible? impossible? if tuned well? .... etc thanks for the input

[MaSSaCrE]

Go with a .50 turbo like me teg youll get 200 its not to small and its not big.Affordable turbo on top of it I have realised.108k miles will be fine to turbo on ima rebuild my 241k ls motor and turbo it so you should be just fine.If you have the money just do what im going to do im sure your shooting for what I am just im spending a bit more money prob on the tial shit.

[Spork]

.50 trim (generally pronounced "50 trim") would probably be the best turbo for you to go with. Typically, thats about as small as b-series guys run. the most common t3/t4 turbo sizes I see on B's are .50, .57, .60, and maybe a .70 depending on how built the motor is (or how ridiculous the owner is). In my opinion the idea, since you have an LS motor, is that you need a turbo that will spool all the way to your desired psi/cfm's and give you full boost through your powerband. since the LS has a lower powerband than the vtec motors (due to the longer stroke) you want something smaller so it spools quick. a .50trim will give you great response and has the capacity for plenty of power through your powerband, and you would be able to get more out of the turbo in the future if you built the block a little to handle more PSI. spool time can also be changed depending on the manifold you use, generally log manifolds spool very quickly at the expense of a little flow on the top end (which you dont need to worry about with an LS). also remember that the "psi" that you run doesn't really mean a whole lot until you take into consideration the size of charge piping you use... "8psi isn't 8psi isn't 8psi"
if I were budget boosting a stock LS I would use either an inline pro or blox cast manifold with a .50trim turbo and 2.25inch charge piping.

[5thgen]

the most common turbo sizes I see on B's are .50, .57, .60, and maybe a .70 depending on how built the motor is (or how ridiculous the owner is).

The trim of a turbo is merely a ratio between the big side of the wheel, to the small side of the wheel. Technically you could have a .90 trim turbo with a tiny 40 mm wheel. It does not dictate compressor wheel size.

the idea, since you have an LS motor, is that you need a turbo that will spool all the way to your desired psi/cfm's and give you full boost through your powerband.

Fuck that. Just do some research on what works, and what doesn't. Real world info is the best you can get. There is a 600+ page thread on honda-tech just on ls-turbo setups. Look at dyno sheets, there are plenty of stock ls motors to base this off of.

since the LS has a lower powerband than the vtec motors (due to the longer stroke)

The LS does not have a SHORTER powerband do to the longer stroke. The powerband is weak at keeping torque in the upper rpm, and you'll lose about 30-60 ft. lbs. from peak torque to redline. I gaurantee you this is 99% due to the head.

Why do many of the people building motors opt for the 89mm crank?

if you built the block a little to handle more cfm's.

Blocks do not handle cfm...they handle cylinder pressure. Maybe you meant the head...I don't know. Just get a vtec head, you will end up spending about the same to get a head with enough flow and drivability.

generally log manifolds spool very quickly at the expense of a little flow on the top end (which you dont need to worry about with an LS).

Why wouldn't you wan't something that could help level out the torque curve better (EL manifold), if that is what is lacking?

also remember that the "psi" that you run doesn't really mean a whole lot until you take into consideration the size of charge piping you use... "8psi isn't 8psi isn't 8psi"

8psi IS 8psi, no matter what. Bigger turbo....smaller turbo....doesn't matter. 8 pounds is 8 pounds.

[MaSSaCrE]

Spork seems pretty familiar with that kinda stuff I wouldnt be saying hes wrong on every single things and saying everyone else is wrong also.

[5thgen]

Spork seems pretty familiar with that kinda stuff I wouldnt be saying hes wrong on every single things and saying everyone else is wrong also.

he doesn't drive one.

[MaSSaCrE]

Driving one has nothing to do with knowing your facts.