how to tell if a motor is vtec

sn95guy · Post by **sn95guy** » Tue May 06, 2008 4:57 pm

mid to low torque... all motor..

rickles8099 · Post by **rickles8099** » Tue May 06, 2008 5:06 pm

even though you may not have an a6 engine, read this

as for as which head is better?

builthatch from d-series.org wrote: Head

People bicker about which head is supreme and for good reason. The z6 head has ideal ports for better flow and the y8 head has a better and smaller combustion chamber, which resists detonation. I used to suggest using the head that is easiest to adapt to your chassis, but i no longer feel that way. This originated in the fact that the engine harness plugs for an obd1 z6 distributor will not work with the y8 distributor, and vice versa...and, you can't use the z6 dizzy on the y8 head because the arms will not line up. I feel that the best bet is to use the z6 head. If your are putting this in an obd2 car, then take the insides out of the y7/y8 distributor and put them in a z6 distributor so the arms can line up to the head. I feel it's worth it. A z6 head has straight ports called tumble ports and a y8 head has off-set ports called swirl ports. Without getting too crazy describing them, the tumble ports can promote the best top end and the swirl port can offer somewhat better low rpm torque and better mixture and MPG with the right tune. But the bottom line is the ports are offset with the y8 head and that will limit your top end power making capability. It's not to say that you can't make power with a y8 head, you can, but it's just not going to be able to go where the z6 head can as far as high-end power, flow and rpm. Granted, the y8 chamber offers better resistance to detonation due to it having more quench area; part of the reason they made the CC smaller was to fit these areas. Make sure that all edges of the CC are smooth to prevent hot spots. Another performance difference is the ports.A requirement for high-horsepower NA is porting. You NEED to have a properly ported head to eclipse 150 whp. Even a mild-port job will suffice, however, the more extravagant the porting, the more power potential. The cam to use is the Crower Stage 3 cam, hands down. Regrinds are limited (amongst other things) and other fresh billet cams are just not optimized the way the Crower profile is. It has the most advanced profile for these engines and offers the broadest power band. Again, this cam requires porting to be effective, and also you must install valve springs and Ti retainers, Crower. I use new stock keepers, however, you may feel inclined to use performance branded ones. Their Ti compound is very resistant to wear, it's called Ti-17 and is supposedly tougher than the stuff everyone else uses, 6AL4V. An adjustable cam gear might be necessary for tuning, though I find that Crower Cams do not need incredible adjustment. I ended up keeping mine at "0". Please note: there is a difference between z6 and y8 cam gears. The only cam gear I recommend is AEM. They have the difference between the keyways of the z6 and y8 nailed. Many manufacturers DO NOT! New OE timing belt is fine. OE valves are fine. A 3 angle valve job will assure consistent seat seal. I use OE Honda head bolts, however, they can only be used once so if you want to, ARP head studs are ideal for those of you who like to take the head on and off. Make sure to contact ARP for their recommendations on which combination or kit to get…block and head configurations cover a vast array of different ARP sets. I recommend using HYLOMAR spray gasket coating available through VALCO Cinicinnati. Torque the head as per stock specs or ARP specs, however, if you are using an extension, remember to compensate by adding 5 ft/lbs or so on the wrench!

sn95guy · Post by **sn95guy** » Tue May 06, 2008 5:22 pm

ya i am picking up a z6 head, gotta get all the other little things for the swap. just gotta get money for it all. and a pcm seems liek trouble to find for it.. anyone know what ones will work fine?

HardCore97 · Post by **HardCore97** » Wed May 07, 2008 5:04 pm

kra95teg;113616 wrote:well cool.....^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^... the motor you have in there right now isnt a vtec motor....but if you want to swap a b-series into your car do some resurch and find out what you want to get....lsvtec can be the cheapest way to go sumtimes and well it can also be the more depends on what you want

yes i know it isnt vtec i never said it was. in one of my other posts i said i just swapped in a b18b. he made a smart ass comment so i gave him one back.
back on topic, seems like the y8 head is what i always see people using on mini me swaps but after reading that seems the z6 is a better choice. for the ecu you can just use a p28.

sn95guy · Post by **sn95guy** » Wed May 07, 2008 10:25 pm

ya problem is i cant find a p28 around here..

HardCore97 · Post by **HardCore97** » Thu May 08, 2008 4:04 pm

i got my ecu off of ebay. you could try craigslist