I did both,but it died when I moved moved the vacuum to the center. I unplugged the map,but nothing..it barely ran. No code..ecu light still on,but if i kick on that fan its fine,for a second though. No light..Spork;104038 wrote:he knows how to check the ecu for codes, we have been going over that in PM's for like a week. plus, he said that the light on the ecu itself is staying on... which I hope doesn't mean that the ecu is done.
can you do me a favor tho and try connecting the MAP to the other port on the throttle body? might not help, but I am more used to seeing it run to that middle port. also, try running the car and unplugging the connector to the map to see if it makes a difference in how it runs.
M.a.p. sensor
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JurScrx
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M.a.p. sensor
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Spork
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M.a.p. sensor
nothing like... no change?
you are talking about the fan for the climate control right?
I can't really tell from the pics, is there a vacuum line running to a nipple on the firewall right there by the fuel filter or is that capped?
you are talking about the fan for the climate control right?
I can't really tell from the pics, is there a vacuum line running to a nipple on the firewall right there by the fuel filter or is that capped?
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JurScrx
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M.a.p. sensor
Yes climate control fan. If I turn it on the car revs fine,and the ecu light goes off,but after a few minutes or seconds it acts up again,trying to die.The nipple on the fire wall was capped,but after i removed it,fuel vapors or something hissed out. So, i left it un capped. I'm trying everything you guys are saying by the way. I've got the car right outside.Spork;104043 wrote:nothing like... no change?
you are talking about the fan for the climate control right?
I can't really tell from the pics, is there a vacuum line running to a nipple on the firewall right there by the fuel filter or is that capped?
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Spork
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M.a.p. sensor
so....
is the map plugged back into the port on the corner of the t/b?
when you unplugged the MAP, did you mean there was no change in how it ran?
by this i mean: start the car with the map plugged in and while it is running, unplug it and see if something changes.
if it didn't change when you unplugged the map, it is bad.
is the map plugged back into the port on the corner of the t/b?
when you unplugged the MAP, did you mean there was no change in how it ran?
by this i mean: start the car with the map plugged in and while it is running, unplug it and see if something changes.
if it didn't change when you unplugged the map, it is bad.
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JurScrx
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M.a.p. sensor
The car w/ the map unplugged barely ran,then died..the map vac line is moved back to the corner.Spork;104046 wrote:so....
is the map plugged back into the port on the corner of the t/b?
when you unplugged the MAP, did you mean there was no change in how it ran?
by this i mean: start the car with the map plugged in and while it is running, unplug it and see if something changes.
if it didn't change when you unplugged the map, it is bad.
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Spork
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M.a.p. sensor
that would suggest that the map is working then, but I would probably shorten the vacuum line a bit
ok. what rpm does the car idle at? should be rigth around 1000 (stock is like 800, but since its cold just a touch high wouldn't hurt) if it is lower than that, i would adjust the idle screw on the t/b out just a bit until you are at about 1000.
ok. what rpm does the car idle at? should be rigth around 1000 (stock is like 800, but since its cold just a touch high wouldn't hurt) if it is lower than that, i would adjust the idle screw on the t/b out just a bit until you are at about 1000.
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Spork
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M.a.p. sensor
I am still having a really tough time seeing everything. it looks like the fpr is still connected to that hardline bracket, but it looks like all of the other parts are capped off in all of the pics on your imageshack page... are you sure that the fpr is getting vacuum?
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JurScrx
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M.a.p. sensor
The car tries to idle at 1000 rpm. The fpr is still ran in the original bracket. I got a video,but it didn't have any sound. So,that woun't help. FPR is getting vacuum. If you unplug that line,it revs up..put your finger over the hole,you can feel the suction. Plus,it idles down,if you plug it. Is there any way I can help you?Spork;104056 wrote:I am still having a really tough time seeing everything. it looks like the fpr is still connected to that hardline bracket, but it looks like all of the other parts are capped off in all of the pics on your imageshack page... are you sure that the fpr is getting vacuum?
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Spork
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M.a.p. sensor
that original bracket is supposed to run it to a solenoid on the firewall that is obviously not that there... so unless you looped the hardlines at the end so that the fpr can get vacuum from the manifold, it isn't hooked up at all... you need to trace that line and make sure it is getting vacuum. it is alright that it connects straight to the manifold. I suggested you remove the whole bracket a long time ago and just run it to the port on the back of the manifold.JurScrx;104058 wrote:The car tries to idle at 1000 rpm. The fpr is still ran in the original bracket. I got a video,but it didn't have any sound. So,that woun't help.
please do that and tell me explicitly whether it is or not. you are responding, but not really directly answering my questions on a lot of this stuff :biggrin:
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JurScrx
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M.a.p. sensor
Does that help?JurScrx;104058 wrote:The car tries to idle at 1000 rpm. The fpr is still ran in the original bracket. I got a video,but it didn't have any sound. So,that woun't help. FPR is getting vacuum. If you unplug that line,it revs up..put your finger over the hole,you can feel the suction. Plus,it idles down,if you plug it. Is there any way I can help you?

By , at 2008-03-20

plugged into bottom side on the intake. bottom drivers side.