Anyone ever build a Dseries Nitrous motor?

Mad Max · Post by **Mad Max** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 1:29 am

Ive had sbc's that ive done as "nitrous motors" and it was pretty easy to tell what those motors could and couldnt take. Anyone ever build D or even B series motors to be strictly "nitrous motors"? What would it take for a 100 shot...150?

civicex442 · Post by **civicex442** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 2:47 am

forged pistons, nice rods and the motivation to replace your rings once a year.

Kage87 · Post by **Kage87** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:09 am

I'm pretty sure Chris N2HIFI's old crx was a nitrous car, you should shot him a pm.

g3integragsr · Post by **g3integragsr** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:12 am

What is this nitrous you speak of?

LowePerf · Post by **LowePerf** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:56 am

The rule of thumb is 20 hp per cyl. for stock engines, so a four cyl. engine should handle an 80 hp shot without issues. There are of course exceptions to this. Late model Cavalairs will break rods at anything over 50 hp if given the chance. I run a 40hp system on my stock bottom end 2 cyl. SeaDoo and have for over 4 years.

Nitrous problems usually show up from too much cylinder pressure, usually caused by hitting the nitrous at too low of rpm or in too high of gear that the engine can't accelerate. Nitrous builds tremendous cylinder pressure and it will push the piston down the bore, if the crank is able to rotate, it will and cause an increase in power. If there is too much load on it the cylinder pressure will just bend or break the rod.

Building a nitrous engine is no different than any other engine until you step up to higher power levels. The engine only see's cylinder pressure, it don't know if its from nitrous,N/A, or forced induction. It just has to be strong enough to handle it. At higher power levels you start having to think about moving the rings lower on the piston, thicker piston tops, ect ect...

If building for max nitrous power things like exhaust valve timing should also be given extra attention but for the average guy, just build it strong.
-John

big pipe · Post by **big pipe** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 10:30 am

get wet!!!!!!!!!
dry kit'll kill ya
blow 100 shot, we need a tester

boner · Post by **boner** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 12:19 pm

LowePerf;88889 wrote:The rule of thumb is 20 hp per cyl. for stock engines, so a four cyl. engine should handle an 80 hp shot without issues. There are of course exceptions to this. Late model Cavalairs will break rods at anything over 50 hp if given the chance. I run a 40hp system on my stock bottom end 2 cyl. SeaDoo and have for over 4 years.

Nitrous problems usually show up from too much cylinder pressure, usually caused by hitting the nitrous at too low of rpm or in too high of gear that the engine can't accelerate. Nitrous builds tremendous cylinder pressure and it will push the piston down the bore, if the crank is able to rotate, it will and cause an increase in power. If there is too much load on it the cylinder pressure will just bend or break the rod.

Building a nitrous engine is no different than any other engine until you step up to higher power levels. The engine only see's cylinder pressure, it don't know if its from nitrous,N/A, or forced induction. It just has to be strong enough to handle it. At higher power levels you start having to think about moving the rings lower on the piston, thicker piston tops, ect ect...

If building for max nitrous power things like exhaust valve timing should also be given extra attention but for the average guy, just build it strong.
-John

Well said :hello2: