my little winter project

bildo16 · Post by **bildo16** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 5:41 pm

big pipe;86603 wrote:on the motor
full interior accord
i dont think its great but it wouldnt be too shabby
it would probably love some boost later down the road
maybe with good tires and clutch, and strippin a little weight.maybe low 14s

good idea, id put 10.5:1 pistons in a motor i was going to boost. :PDT_ura1:
a lot of time, a lot of money, still your car wont be fast.

BOOSTADDICT87 · Post by **BOOSTADDICT87** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 11:55 pm

that should be a hoss

or beast

2nrsOfSpringfield · Post by **2nrsOfSpringfield** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 7:42 pm

1 the F22a head is better than all the other sohc F heads and ported will even out flow a ported H22a head
2 if your going NA, especially in a car that heavy, you want all the bore and stroke you can get. The 95mm f22 crank would be much better than the 90.7mm H22 crank for what you are wanting to do. You would want the shorter stroke H22a crank more for boost. Also you can buy a complete F23a engine for $300-400 and it has a 97mm stroke. PS 86mm K20a and a2 pistons fit in the F23. Try
Modern Auto Parts, St.-Louis 1-888-919-8138 or
Midway Auto Parts, Kansas-City 1-816-242-0100
we have got F23a swaps from both of these places. Good luck

big pipe · Post by **big pipe** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 8:07 pm

yeah man, ive been reading alot about runnin K pistons, the only problem is the bore. i would have to go f23 block. i really want to do the H crank and rods. from what ive read that 95mm stroke wont last a season spinning past 7K. if i punch out the f23 block 1mm with the H internals itll basically be an iron sleeved h22 (with a f head) H crank is forged, the F crank is not. im also thinkin a6 head/IM for the said reasons, also i could piece it all together with the car still runnin on the stock engine..........either way its still in the early stages, nothing set in stone yet..........i did find a f23 bottom end for 100 bucks and the 55mm h22 crank for 50.
with the H crank and rods, and a 87mm bore i could probably just use off the shelf h22 pistons too, but then i would have to machine the combustion chambers 2mm to match the block. the F head has a slighly smaller cc which would raise the compression about .3-.5 over what the pistons claim
ill figure this all eventually, and keep yall updated

btw the end goal is to have a bulletproof bottom end thatll go to 7500-7800
boost is gonna come next winter, thats a whole nother thread

twkdcd595 · Post by **twkdcd595** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 8:43 pm

i know where there is an f23 block... hint hint

i dont know where to start here since you make me want to type a novel about your idea here.

first of all, you dont need pauters for your plans, eagles will do just fine... and are proven to be good to 500whp reliably. eagle makes an h22 rod. you also can order je pistons with the wrist pin moved up in them to compensate for the added rod length the h22 rods will have if you decided to go simple route with f22 crank, block, and head (rod lengths = 143mm h22/ 141.5mm f22 rods/ 141.0mm f23). although another option at that point if you are stuck on the pauters and going the straight f series route is to use the h23 pauter rods which are the same length a f22 rods.

as for what your plans are for motor, you have about 10 different way to go... but you need to consider that whatever you choose, f22/ f23/ h22 motors are NOT identical. for example: the f23 has different size main journals than other f series or some h series. for you to put a h22 crank in a f23 you would need a h22a4 crank with 55mm mains.

just some food for thought... check out the g series information on hondatech for some good brain food on interchanging h/f series parts.

I can try to help you out as much as possible if you need some more information but it looks like your a bit undecided. I like boost and if you want to pm me I can send you my number so we can talk without me having to flood this thread with pages of information or links.

twkdcd595 · Post by **twkdcd595** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 8:48 pm

edited to correct my grammar and make sense of my post, typed some of it too fast cause I am at work.

big pipe · Post by **big pipe** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 8:55 pm

yeah man between prelittlelude and piratemcfred, ive read WELL over 100 pages on the topic, what im thinkin is kinda the opposite of both of them. the F crank idea is out, if i wanted a torquey motor it wouldnt be a 4cyl. (my sonoma put down 415 ft/lbs at the wheels). im just brainstorming, trying to get ideas. i appreciate all the relevant responses, and nothing will materialize of this build until i can walk again (broken leg) thanks for your input guys.
btw anyone heard of Probe rods? look decent, and cheap!

twkdcd595 · Post by **twkdcd595** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 9:09 pm

f23 block, h22a4 crank, h22 eagle rods, custom wiseco/ je pistons to your specs for bore and height, f22a head, etc... :blob3:

oh and like I said, I know where there is a f23 block with 80k on it... for cheap.

big pipe · Post by **big pipe** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 9:15 pm

twkdcd595;87078 wrote:f23 block, h22a4 crank, h22 eagle rods, custom wiseco/ je pistons to your specs for bore and height, f22a head, etc... :blob3:

oh and like I said, I know where there is a f23 block with 80k on it... for cheap.

thats pretty much the plan.......man
oh , and how cheap?

2nrsOfSpringfield · Post by **2nrsOfSpringfield** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 9:59 pm

big pipe;87073 wrote:yeah man, ive been reading alot about runnin K pistons, the only problem is the bore. i would have to go f23 block. i really want to do the H crank and rods. from what ive read that 95mm stroke wont last a season spinning past 7K. if i punch out the f23 block 1mm with the H internals itll basically be an iron sleeved h22 (with a f head) H crank is forged, the F crank is not. im also thinkin a6 head/IM for the said reasons, also i could piece it all together with the car still runnin on the stock engine..........either way its still in the early stages, nothing set in stone yet..........i did find a f23 bottom end for 100 bucks and the 55mm h22 crank for 50.
with the H crank and rods, and a 87mm bore i could probably just use off the shelf h22 pistons too, but then i would have to machine the combustion chambers 2mm to match the block. the F head has a slighly smaller cc which would raise the compression about .3-.5 over what the pistons claim
ill figure this all eventually, and keep yall updated
btw the end goal is to have a bulletproof bottom end thatll go to 7500-7800
boost is gonna come next winter, thats a whole nother thread

lol dont believe everything you read on the net. First the 95mm H23/f22 crank is forged just like the H22a and so is the f23. Second, I run a 99mm stroke in my allmotor engine and it sees well over 9000rpm every pass and was been assembled for two full seasons now with zero problems and make around 100 passes. This is a street car by the way. It makes its peak power of over 300hp just past 9000rpm with an intake manifold not ITBs. We do f22/h23 and f23 cranks in almost every allmotor H/F series build we do and have had no reliability issues even reving to 8500 or higher. If you do it right you wont ether. Now like I said before if you want boost then go with the H22a crank for sure but I wouldnt bore it out to 87mm. At that point you will have a very thin and weak sleeve. Third, the F22a head out performs every other sohc F series head by leaps and bounds, Bisi runs an f22a head on his setup. The f22a is the best sohc F series engine they ever made.