sleeving and port-n-polish anyone?

evoman33 · Post by **evoman33** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 4:39 pm

i've looked high and low for people who could do awesome work on honda blocks and cylinder heads and last may i found an awesome shop. In my home town of west frankfort ill a little machine shop named brown's auto machine. joe brown the owner is now a close friend of my, i took my cylinder head of crx sir turbo to him and ordered full crower valves, springs, ti retainers and a pair of cams 63-409'2 and asked him to do what he can to work the hp and tq and cfms out of the head. when i got it back i couldnt believe how awesome the porting was. i've seen endnye's and kingmotorsport's work but for the price that joe brown offers is around 4435 cheaper. heres a quote for a d16a6 crx my shop is building

Install M.I.D. Sleeves
Stress relieve block
Surface block
Finish ID cylinders
Sleeves
1400.00

Cylinder Head package
Install Guides
Install larger valves
Surface Heads
Port & Polish
Assemble/Disassemble
700.00

Align Hone 145.00
Rework Oil passages 75.00
Modify Oil pump 75.00
Assemble engine 600.00

Total 2995.00

Clayton · Post by **Clayton** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 5:06 pm

did they flow bench your head?

evoman33 · Post by **evoman33** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 6:27 pm

i was using cfm's as a point of reference. but i asure you that this guy knows his port and polishing ill have pictures later this summer on it. he's build motors for circut cars and he still has business and it's only gotten bigger. he just started working with 4 cylider motors he's looking into more equipment though for the imports.

N2HIFI · Post by **N2HIFI** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 7:35 pm

whats with the align hone ? not using the factory crank or just concerned with issues since your having the block sleeved?

Then i think my next question is why the hell are you sleeving a a6 block? I am assuming this is going to be a ALL motor build, why not just do a swap or run a f22 insteasd better performance WAAAAAyyyy less buck

hell i am building a 30 psi motor and using stock sleeves and bore and i am not even considering sleeving the block.

chris

Post by **budget_crx** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 7:53 pm

N2HIFI;37394 wrote:whats with the align hone ? not using the factory crank or just concerned with issues since your having the block sleeved?

hell i am building a 30 psi motor and using stock sleeves and bore and i am not even considering sleeving the block.

you think you can pull off a 30psi capable block with stock sleeves, yet you don't even see why he would get a line hone done? do you even know what a line hone does? :confused1:

b18b-t · Post by **b18b-t** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 7:59 pm

lol i was thinking the same thing.. your building a motor for 30psi with stock sleeves?.. dont say we didnt tell you when your motor explodes.. what motor btw?

Post by **budget_crx** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 8:15 pm

b18b-t;37402 wrote:lol i was thinking the same thing.. your building a motor for 30psi with stock sleeves?.. dont say we didnt tell you when your motor explodes.. what motor btw?

must be a 2JZ :laughing3:

evoman33 · Post by **evoman33** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 9:51 pm

you could run a d series with stock sleeves and 30psi but you'd have to calculate 12psi=1 bar=adding 1 compression the right way 14.7psi=1bar=adding 1 compression . normal barrimeteric pressure is 14.7psi use 12psi and you'll be a little bit safer. giving the fact thats its a stock block with upgraded pistons and rods. the d-series has a stronger block than the b series. but inturn has weaker rods. still the motor shouldnt be a daily driver. it would be meant only for the tracks 10 to 12 sec pulls only and even then it wont last you more than 10 to 30 k miles...so you decide what you want to do. next time you have a d- and b- series blocks together lock at the difference in size of the sleeves. use a micromiter

N2HIFI · Post by **N2HIFI** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 10:58 pm

-you only need to do a align hone if you have one of the following issues

Main bore misalignment and block distortion can also be caused by overheating, prolonged or extreme overloading (as in racing), or even improper torquing of the head bolts. The main bearings will show a wear pattern that gets progressively worse toward the center of the engine with the center main bearings showing the most wear or wiping. The cure is to check the alignment of the bores and the straightness of the crankshaft (one or both may be off). A bent crank should be straightened or replaced. If the bores are off, the main caps can be cut down so the bores can be bored or honed to restore alignment and size.

A block may also have to be align bored or honed if a bearing has spun, if a bearing cap has to be replaced because it is damaged or cracked, or if OEM two-bolt main caps in a block are being replaced with aftermarket four-bolt main caps to strengthen the bottom end of the engine.

Also important is the alignment of the camshaft bore in both pushrod engines and overhead cam (OHC) cylinder heads. Like the crank bores, the cam bores must be straight, parallel to the crankshaft and deck surfaces, and in OHC heads properly positioned with respect to the valves, too.

seeing as how this is a new build i asked the Educated question why do a alighn hone UNLESS your not using the stock crank or for one of the above reasons. Also from what i understand also that sleeving a block can cause the crankshaft journals the get out of wack by a cpl .10ths. And then again there is also the obvious reason to align hone if the motor spun a rod bearing.

*Do i even know what align hone * thats funny as seeing i have probley built more honda motors then 1/2 the people on this site and have built more V* motor's then probley everybody on this site.

-30 psi on a stock block and bore yep its already been done and i am just folowing the same build just i am doing 75% of the work (i am having a machine shop do all my work including a align hone because i am using a new crank on a rod bearing spun block).

here is just one link to the latest high HP numers on a stock bore / stock sleeved block 442hp and 323lb tq. read the post the motor has been together for over 9 months at 390hp

http://www.turbod16.com/viewtopic.php?p=327720#327720

now granted i will not be running 30psi for daily, only track days and on 116 but i will be running 20psi and 93 all day long as this is one of my many daily drivers.

assuming that you know everything about everything makes you look like a ass. You might want to re think what you about to say next time. And for the record do you NOT think i would not research somthing before i decide to post it or build it. Man you guys don't know me very well yet do you.

chris

N2HIFI · Post by **N2HIFI** » Fri Apr 20, 2007 11:04 pm

now as far as what motor:

D16y8 block
D16z6 head
Vitrara 8.5:1 pistons
Tuner toy rods
ACL bearings
new OEM crank
new OEM oil pump modded for higher oil pressure
new OEM oil pickup
aluminum oil pan
block is getting heat tanked,notched and the oil passages modded,also getting align honed (had a spun rod bearings and using new crank)

-Stock Bored
-Stock Sleeve
-Stock valve train
-Head ported and polished and port matched from the TB to the turbo manifold.

everything is being built right for my needs.

projected #
30 psi
400 hp
330+tq

11 second 1/4's

this is goin in my 92 civic cx HB (not the ef)

chris

stlhondas