2000 civic si w/ gsr bogging/sputtering

BigDreamz · Post by **BigDreamz** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:09 am

im just looking for suggestions...

good fresh 93 gas
fresh oil change with good oil level...
new spark plugs
the wires are in proper firing order and are all the way on
the cap and rotor are older but were working fine a week ago
skunk2 intake manifold but only a stock tb off origional b16.. tps could be not working properly?!

i only got 175 miles out of a FULL tank of gas!!!
recently re-timed the belt and distributor with jumper in the plug... it and it was running good for a week then i dropped it in 3rd realllllly hard and pulled through 4th and then it wasnt liking it...hasnt really ran right since... did i jump a tooth possibly?!?
it runs good till 2500ish rpms and then it just wants to bogg down until 4500ish then feels fine...
i know my injectors are loud as hell! could one be not working properly? it almost sounds like a valve tick but when i put my ear to the valve cover theres no noise till i move back to the injectors and i can feel them pulsing to the noise as well... just abnormally loud for some reason...
im running an obd2b wiring harness with obd1 jumper harness to an obd1 gsr ecu... good ecu for sure...
could i have a vaccum leak to my fuel regulator??
just looking for suggestions before i start tearing it all apart and cause more problems

BigDreamz · Post by **BigDreamz** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:55 pm

anybody?!?! its my dd and i dont want to blow it up...

Phate · Post by **Phate** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:15 pm

I'd double check the mechanical timing. I did my t belt on the ls/v I built, and it jumped timing and ran like shit. Hopefully you didnt bend/break a bunch of valves.

JustRob · Post by **JustRob** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:07 am

Why does everyone forget the most important piece of information every time these thread are made?

Did you check to see if any trouble codes are stored in the ECU? And of course, as Phate said, go back and double check your work.

BigDreamz · Post by **BigDreamz** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 3:03 am

im running an obd2 engine harness/ all electronics but an obd1 computer... it hasnt thrown a check engine light no idea if theres blinking lights or whatever... is that only obd0 or does the obd1 ecu flash codes too...

it was 100% for sure timed perfect physiclly with the belt and with a timing gun while idling smooth at just under 1000 rpm's while engine was warm... and with the plug jumped....

it drove for over a week just fine with no issues at all

it didnt happen till i slammed it into 3rd at about 75 and then pushed it crazy hard almost through fourth... if the timing is off it happened then... it still idles perfect and i drove it about 50 miles with the problem so i highly doubt my valves are all bent up... vtec doesnt kick in or it doesnt kick in hard like it used to... (yes i have full oil level) maybe my oil pump is going out or does it just straight go out either works or doesnt?

tonight im going to check the timing and put a new tensioner on and then replace my injectors with some from an extra h22a vtec head i have that i know runs perfect... im also changing the fuel filter and checking to make sure my o2 sensor is working (swapping it with a known working used one)

there is two with the obd2 electronics and only one with obd1 correct ?!? do i need to keep both can one be deleted with a plug? and which one is deleted pre cat or in the cat

JustRob · Post by **JustRob** » Sat Dec 10, 2011 12:43 am

Slow down and stop assuming random components are the cause of your problem. This will get you nowhere. There is a proper procedure for diagnosing drivability issues and it always starts with checking for DTCs. Even if the "check engine light" isn't on, a stored code can help out a lot with the troubleshooting process. Follow the link below on how to read codes and let us know what you find. After pulling the codes, recheck anything that you recently removed, replaced and/or adjusted. Timing, belt tension, spark plug gap, plug wire connections, etc.

http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/how-to/celcheck/

BigDreamz · Post by **BigDreamz** » Sun Dec 11, 2011 1:23 am

thanks rob for the link... im going to try that tonight and see if there are any codes

i took the crank pulley off and it had jumped one tooth... im pretty sure the belt is old and just slightly stretched out... i changed the timing belt tensioner cause it wasnt in the best shape and set everything perfect and did the "3 teeth to tighten" thing and bolted it all back up... it ran perfect till i dropped it in second and gunned it... im sure it jumed a tooth again... i ordered a new belt so i hope that fixes it

Turtle_Civic · Post by **Turtle_Civic** » Sat Dec 24, 2011 3:26 am

It may have jumped again and if it did your lucky you didnt bend valves. If your who i think you are i was at your house a couple weekends ago and yes you def have a injector problem. Ive never heard any that loud. You may have low impendance injectors in there and you dont have a resistor box so that could be part of the problem. Id swap them out for some high impendance injectors. Ive got some for sale but youd have to have them tuned in. Way to big to run with stock tune.

ls hatch · Post by **ls hatch** » Fri May 25, 2012 4:15 am

check fuel pressure too.. your fuel pump could be going out.. running at like 10 -30 psi when it should be around 36 38 or 40.. it could be giving you enough fuel to run fine at idle and a little above then bogging it out also a good way to tell is really quickly punch it to the floor does it pop like it jus sucked in alot of air and no fuel..? many things to check though.. timing could be off.. injectors could be the wrong impediance.. but that would have happened before.. check to see if the are electronicly fine.. ohm meter them lows should be 4.5 if high it will be around 11.9 12.0.. also check main things that are crutial fuel filter.. cap rotor.. plugs.. i understand they were fine but something could have happened.. good luck and hope i could have helped