idle pulsating problem after motor swap

97slvrhatch · Post by **97slvrhatch** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:22 pm

the diagram says to plug into d10 and d15 but there is a wire going into d10. do i cut and the splice the 5v wire from the potentiometer to the d10 wire? or is that supposed to be an empty hole because d15 is empty...

97slvrhatch · Post by **97slvrhatch** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:38 pm

sorry i wasnt wearing my contacts i was thinking d18 was d10 my bad.

97slvrhatch · Post by **97slvrhatch** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:45 pm

97slvrhatch;271139 wrote:sorry i wasnt wearing my contacts i was thinking d18 was d10 my bad.

nevermind this i looked up at the conector c after i put my contacts in. sorry about all this confusion but do i cut and spilce the d10 wire for the 5v potentiometer?

JustRob · Post by **JustRob** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:49 pm

97slvrhatch;271140 wrote:nevermind this i looked up at the conector c after i put my contacts in. sorry about all this confusion but do i cut and spilce the d10 wire for the 5v potentiometer?

I don't think I can explain it any better than what I posted in the link.

FF Squad wrote:We fool the ECU by providing a similar voltage that the FTP would normally send -- this happens to be around 2.5v. You need to acquire a 10k linear potentiometer: Radio Shack Part Number 271-1715.
The outter 2 pins are going to be +5v reference and ground (does not matter which), while the center pin will be your output feeding back to the ECU pinout.

(Before you hook up the pot's center pin to the ECU, use a multimeter to adjust the output to 2.5v.)

Here are the 96-98 civic & integra ECU pin assignments:
D10: +5v
D15: FTP input
D11: Ground

97slvrhatch · Post by **97slvrhatch** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 2:47 am

i understand that i just didnt know if d10 was supposed to have a wire already in it. so i just pull that wire and plug the 5v wire into d10 and just leave the old d10 wire dangling?