I won a set of black gen4's and led tails that were only used for a month for $108 shipped!!
Yeah I'll have to try and track down the right links, I only need the links right?
My shebalt..
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sirricealot
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2006 Chevy Cobalt SS/NA 2.4L IL: FEERME7
2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250r IL: RUNYON
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David Runyon
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Rich
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Only issue I had was a recall on the steering shaft. Thats it. Other than that its been a great car. And the wheels were originally painted black due to some curb damage from last years snow.. Insurance paid me to replace the wheels and tires but I just kept the money and painted the wheels. As hard as it might be for some to believe this has been the most reliable car ive owned.exnissanguy;280097 wrote:I fucking hate, hate, hate cobalts, but at least you are keeping it clean. Id say the car looked best with the 08 wheels unpainted, tho. Man, keep the mods light. I dont know about you but, ive never had so many problems with a new car. suspension recalls, power steering, window problems, hard downshifts,....... and the factory warranty barely covered anything. I will never buy an american economy car again. American automakers are failing in there general car lineups as of late imo.
Yes you only need the links and before you use those gen 4's run an hid kit in them. Almost everyone whose run the stock halogen lights has cracked their lenses. though later versions arent supposed to do this. But might as well get an HID for them anyway as the ddm kits are only like 35-40 shipped per kit.sirricealot;280131 wrote:I won a set of black gen4's and led tails that were only used for a month for $108 shipped!!
Yeah I'll have to try and track down the right links, I only need the links right?
And the links you need are the shorter ones. So if they have both in stock measure them and the shorter ones should be the right ones. (not sure why but moog shows 2 FE5 part numbers. when FE5 cars all used the same link and the FE1/FE3 cars used longer links)
2008 Chevy Slobalt
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Hope this helps
Yes I own 2 slow red chick cars & 1 real car!
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Hope this helps
Yes I own 2 slow red chick cars & 1 real car!
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sirricealot
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My shebalt..
yeah i'll probably get the hid as well. wheres the ddm one again? as long as i only need the fe5 links and nothing else, i should be able to find them. just wanna make sure no modification will be needed.Rich;280132 wrote:Only issue I had was a recall on the steering shaft. Thats it. Other than that its been a great car. And the wheels were originally painted black due to some curb damage from last years snow.. Insurance paid me to replace the wheels and tires but I just kept the money and painted the wheels. As hard as it might be for some to believe this has been the most reliable car ive owned.
Yes you only need the links and before you use those gen 4's run an hid kit in them. Almost everyone whose run the stock halogen lights has cracked their lenses. though later versions arent supposed to do this. But might as well get an HID for them anyway as the ddm kits are only like 35-40 shipped per kit.
And the links you need are the shorter ones. So if they have both in stock measure them and the shorter ones should be the right ones. (not sure why but moog shows 2 FE5 part numbers. when FE5 cars all used the same link and the FE1/FE3 cars used longer links)
2006 Chevy Cobalt SS/NA 2.4L IL: FEERME7
2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250r IL: RUNYON
xbxlive: sirricealot07
ps3: sirricealot7
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2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250r IL: RUNYON
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ps3: sirricealot7
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Rich
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My shebalt..
No modification for either is needed. The hids are plug and play. And the endlinks are as simple as remove the old ones and out the new ones in.sirricealot;280143 wrote:yeah i'll probably get the hid as well. wheres the ddm one again? as long as i only need the fe5 links and nothing else, i should be able to find them. just wanna make sure no modification will be needed.
I think ddms website is WWW.ddm.com
2008 Chevy Slobalt
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Hope this helps
Yes I own 2 slow red chick cars & 1 real car!
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Hope this helps
Yes I own 2 slow red chick cars & 1 real car!
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sirricealot
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My shebalt..
awesome sounds good.Rich;280144 wrote:No modification for either is needed. The hids are plug and play. And the endlinks are as simple as remove the old ones and out the new ones in.
I think ddms website is WWW.ddm.com
the headlights have a module box on them from what i seen in the picture, he said its for the halo's though. apparently its plug n play, i remember when i had halo's before you had to wire them up to the parking lights yourself lol.
gonna most likely take my grills out.
2006 Chevy Cobalt SS/NA 2.4L IL: FEERME7
2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250r IL: RUNYON
xbxlive: sirricealot07
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2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250r IL: RUNYON
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David Runyon
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sirricealot
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My shebalt..
how to you remove the grilles on the car?
2006 Chevy Cobalt SS/NA 2.4L IL: FEERME7
2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250r IL: RUNYON
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2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250r IL: RUNYON
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Andrew
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it clips into place, the clips are kind of a pain.sirricealot;280310 wrote:how to you remove the grilles on the car?
'93 Honda Civic VX - 35mpg+ Boosted Daily Driver
'93 Acura Integra - In progress, wire tuck, brake line tuck, Budget Built. :gape:
'93 Acura Integra - In progress, wire tuck, brake line tuck, Budget Built. :gape:
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sirricealot
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is there any how to's out there to remove it?Andrew;280345 wrote:it clips into place, the clips are kind of a pain.
i just dont wanna break it in case i choose to put them back in later.
2006 Chevy Cobalt SS/NA 2.4L IL: FEERME7
2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250r IL: RUNYON
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2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250r IL: RUNYON
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sirricealot
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ok so the guy with the head/tail lights said it was gonna cost too much to ship them. so he had to give me a refund. im sick of deadbeats on ebay, making up excuses why they wont ship me my product. at least ill get my money back, maybe ill pick up the sway bar links now. would i still be fine with getting that ddm hid kit on stock headlights?
2006 Chevy Cobalt SS/NA 2.4L IL: FEERME7
2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250r IL: RUNYON
xbxlive: sirricealot07
ps3: sirricealot7
David Runyon
2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250r IL: RUNYON
xbxlive: sirricealot07
ps3: sirricealot7
David Runyon
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Andrew
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My shebalt..
you should go over to cobaltss.net. they will be more helpful there might be a how to on there on grill removal, as for HID's in OEM housings most will say dont do it, the cobalt headlights are said not to glare TOO bad with HID's. Really your call.
'93 Honda Civic VX - 35mpg+ Boosted Daily Driver
'93 Acura Integra - In progress, wire tuck, brake line tuck, Budget Built. :gape:
'93 Acura Integra - In progress, wire tuck, brake line tuck, Budget Built. :gape: