clays elf build

Waffles · Post by **Waffles** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 4:02 pm

Dont forger disc dissipates heat faster.

rickles8099 · Post by **rickles8099** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 4:05 pm

06sik20z3;267911 wrote:idk if it does or not more along the lines of a joke, i just prefer the ease of discs. understandably the more contact surface area of the drum in theory will stop better the disc ease of just slapping pads and rotors and not have to deal with spring tensions and all that jive is actually why i am switching over.

understandable.
however, if its a quarter mile car. how often will you have to replace the brakes? once every five or six years?

Waffles;267913 wrote:Dont forger disc dissipates heat faster.

how hot can drums get if all you have to do is stop once at the end of a track? dont think they can get too hot if bigger older muscle cars that weigh more can do it.

sharpie · Post by **sharpie** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 5:10 pm

I think disks weigh less and they make drag setups that have smaller rotors and smaller calipers than normal

Waffles · Post by **Waffles** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 5:16 pm

rickles8099;267915 wrote:how hot can drums get if all you have to do is stop once at the end of a track? dont think they can get too hot if bigger older muscle cars that weigh more can do it.

Well you know with how fast hondas are they need the full cool down area to stop. They can get pretty hot!

Clayton · Post by **Clayton** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 5:42 pm

disapating heat really is not to big of a deal as i dont think ill be traveling at speeds high enough to make a difference as of yet. i only really have experience with discs but i like the ease of using a 12 and a 14 and other readily available tools if something was ever to go wrong not have to have a drum tool kit again and fiddle with those springs spawned from hell.

99BlackHatch · Post by **99BlackHatch** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:11 pm

I'm shocked that this car never had rear disc all this time. I knew you looked like a caveman you fucking ape, but now I know you truly are one.

Drill as many holes in the rotors and the pads and the brake lines as possible to shave weight! LMAO

JustRob · Post by **JustRob** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:47 am

sharpie;267916 wrote:I think disks weigh less and they make drag setups that have smaller rotors and smaller calipers than normal

The Civic rear drum brake setup weighs 7 lbs. less per side when compared to an Integra rear disc brake setup. I can live with an extra 14 lbs. to have a more reliable, simpler brake setup.

kra95civic · Post by **kra95civic** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:15 pm

better brake sysem is worth it. plus if he drives it on the street 2 least he will have peace of mind. looks good clay if you need help i live off mexico.

Clayton · Post by **Clayton** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:12 pm

ok been working pretty dilegently on this car trying to get it somewhat moveable. i did not want a gauge cluster in the car. the tach,speedo, fuel, and water temp as we all know is not the best in the stock honda cluster. the check engine light is very important atleast to me so to the wiring schematics first i had to find what color wires controlled the cel. It was a yellow for the positive and a green/brown for the ground. The ground was controlled threw the ecu. So what I did was introduce a led into the schematics as you can see in the top left of my crappy gauge holder I made out of old tin. Ok so we now have a check engine light. Everyone knows that to check the check engine you jump the ignition timing jumper well I simplified it and introduced a switch to complete the circuit as you can see right below the red led. I know its stupid why don’t I just have the dumb cluster but if you know me its all about weight and this just made sense. and it really works i am now not throwing a code for my o2 sensor :w00t2:

Redline · Post by **Redline** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 10:55 pm

i like how you still have a cel light, looks like its coming along great just at a very slow rate. keep it up