ENGINE/TRANSMISSION-
The engine is a freshly built CNC machined and blue printed 4 bolt pre-1985 Chevy 350 with high compression hypereutectic pistons, moly rings, cam (don’t have the cams specs on me as I’m writing this), roller tip rocker arms, hardened pushrods, and a double row high strength timing set. Externally it has an Edelbrock performer rpm intake, Edelbrock performer carb, headers, lightweight harmonic balancer, 50,000v HEI distributor, and mandrel bent true dual side exit exhaust. Along with dress up items like a chrome 1-wire alternator, short aluminum water pump, chrome timing/valve covers, and aluminum pulleys. ALL engine parts are brand new.
The engine and transmission mounts were built by hand, not from a kit. This allowed me to mount the engine as far back (pic) in the engine bay as possible for optimal weight balance. And due to the shallow depth of the dry sump oil pan I could mount the engine extremely low (pic) for a low center of gravity. In addition other measures have been taken such as relocating the battery to the trunk, shaving all unnecessary engine bay brackets, and fabricating an custom ultra low mount alternator bracket.
The dry sump system consists of a Stock Car Products 4 stage pump, ARE aluminum pan, Peterson 5 gallon oil tank, and WIX remote oil filter (pic) . The pump has 2 stages that suck oil from the pan and pump it through a -16an stainless steel braided hose all the way to the oil sump mounted in the trunk (pic), then 1 stage of the pump sucks oil back out of the sump into the filter and into the engine, and the remaining stage of the pump pulls a vacuum in the crankcase for improved ring seal and power. For anyone who’s with a dry sump system check out these links for more info: (link) (link)
The cooling system consists of a high flow water pump, Koyo aluminum radiator/trans cooler, Moroso coolant tank, and stainless steel radiator hoses. The fuel system uses a trunk mounted Mallory return style fuel pressure regulator, and the car has stainless steel braided hoses for all fuel, vacuum, trans fluid, and oil lines.
The transmission setup is a 700r4 with lockup torque converter, B&M shifter, new flex plate and a custom drive shaft. Unfortunately the transmission is slipping, the car is still drivable you just can’t put down all the power. I had decided to sell the car before I found out about the bad transmission so there wasn’t much point in fixing it if the future owner would want a different transmission altogether. I am willing and capable of swapping in whatever transmission you want or having the one in it now rebuilt depending on the price. Give me a call and we can work something out!
INTERIOR-
The car’s interior has been kept simple; there are no stacks of gages or panels full of switches. In fact a non-enthusiast could get in the car fire it up with the stock Nissan key and never know anything was out of the ordinary. However, make no mistake everything you could possibly ever need is there. The stock Nissan instrument cluster was removed and replaced with a Racepak Ultra Dash (pic). Similar to the more commonly know Stack system the Racepak dash displays normal information like tachometer, speedometer, oil pressure, oil temperature, and water temperature. But it also has a fuel gauge, trip meter, odometer, and indicators for turn signal, high beams, and parking brake. It is fully programmable, and has a ton of additional capabilities (for example it controls the radiator fan with user adjustable turn-on temp).
The only other interior modification is the B&M shifter that fits perfectly in place of the stock shifter. The car’s interior is in great shape, there are no tears in the seats, no stains, and no smoke smell. It is missing the driver’s side power window/mirror switch and doesn’t have a radio.
The Racepak dash system is optional, if you aren’t interested in it you can take $700 off the price and the car will come with a basic oil pressure and water temperature gauges.
SUSPENSION/WHEELS/TIRES-
The Nissan’s suspension is in great shape and would be perfect for the street or an occasional racer. One of my top priorities when I started working on the car was to replace the stock open diff with a limited slip. The car also has Tokico blue struts, Eibach springs and Cusco camber plates. The inner and outer tie rod ends are new. The wheels are Kosei K1 lightweight track wheels, 16x7.5 +22, 16x8.5 +38, the tires have low tread on the front and no tread on the rear.
In designing the mounts one priority was keeping the stock suspension geometry, if you move the steering rack and mess up your steering geometry the car would be worthless for anything but drag racing. And in the end I was fortunate to be able (with a few tricks) to keep the steering rack in the stock location. The stock power steering rack was also removed and rebuilt with a few modifications. I wanted to keep the quicker ratio of the power rack, as most manual racks are too slow for racing (i.e. too many turns lock to lock). So I had the internal seals removed to convert the power rack into a true manual rack albeit with the faster ratio. All of the steering feel is there just like a true manual rack and it isn’t that hard to steer at parking lot speeds. In addition fittings were added so that in the future you can add grease without removing the steering rack from the car.
PAINT/BODY-
The car’s body has a few modifications the most obvious being the Mr. Gasket style hood scoop. It is a functional intake, (for those of you who’ve never seen one of these up close) a linkage from the throttle actuates the red circular flaps. One thing I was fortunate to accomplish was to have the hood open and close normally with the stock hinges (instead of using 4 hood pins) making opening and closing the hood a one man operation. The side skirts are custom made of steel as a future mounting point for a flat underbody tray. The car also has an aftermarket front bumper (not sure of the brand), window tint, and tinted headlights and taillights (easily removable if you don’t like it).
The car was repainted in John Deere Blitz Black a popular hot rod color with an eggshell finish. This was a full color change including the door jambs, underside of the hood, engine bay, underside of the trunk lid, and trunk. The paint is tough and durable, and John Deere sells it both in gallon form (which is what I used) and rattle cans which is nice for any touch up. The radiator support is also custom made to be removable, making puling the engine and transmission a snap! Disconnect a few bolts, and the whole radiator, support, headlights, and fan pull right out giving you 16 inches of extra clearance.
