In Need of a Good Tune

92_luder · Post by **92_luder** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 3:46 am

things gon b badass once its tune....its scoots lol

Boosted_da · Post by **Boosted_da** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 4:13 am

riceROCKET;254922 wrote:. ..I don't have anything controlling my v-tec now. and on te p28 com. does it matter if it cam off of a single cam vehicle?? would that have any factor in the tune?

that is the one you want is a single cam vtec p28 you cant run the ect till you get a tune on it or your car will run like shit but thats where you wana start. do you know if you have obd0 or obd1 a easy way to tell is look at your ecu if there is a clear hole in it for a led then its a obd0

N2HIFI · Post by **N2HIFI** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 5:39 am

here let me stop this whole mess of misinformation right now

he has a OBD0 motor and probley a pr3 or pw0 ecu both are stock for that motor.. he has BASIC bolt ons i/h/e .... obd0 ecus are NOT limited like obd2 ecu's which means as the car see's more air from the upgraded intake it add more fuel automatically thus maintaining proper AFR's and also making extra horsepower
.... all negating the need for any type of tune. If you had head work,intake manifold,cams or internal work then YES you would need a tune... but being a stock motor with bolt ons you dont need to waste the money on a tune

Also when converting a obd0 motor to obd1 you need to run a obd1 dizzy,4 wire o2 and obviously a obd1 ecu and conversion harness... WHY because the obd1 ecu works differently then the obd0 one and there are different sensors in a obd1 dizzy then a obd0 one.. and since obd1 cars run a 4 wire o2 and obd0 cars run a single wire o2 this is the reason for a 4 wire o2 when running a obd1/2 vtec ecu in a non vtec car

Boosted_da · Post by **Boosted_da** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 5:59 am

i agree with you 90% you are completely right on with the dizzy and 4 wire o2 and with the fact that a obd0 pr4 is a vtec ecu will work for his car and even still a pr4 can be chipped and tuned but as for not getting a tune that is where i would differ if he were to run strictly on 93 oct and get a tune accordingly it would be beneficial even with simple boltons

Boosted_da · Post by **Boosted_da** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:02 am

when you are at wide open throttle the car goes into closed loop and the 02 sensor does nothing hence where a tune would come into play and even with mild boltons ive seen a b16 go beyond the short term fuel trim and start to run lean on a dd bases

N2HIFI · Post by **N2HIFI** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:47 am

lean makes power duh... so how is that bad?

lean on a n/a motor is A OK
lean on a boosted motor = melted pistons

ive have several b motors and for a time 80% of the GMR tribe all had b16's with bolt ons .. and tuned or not they all made within 5-6 hp of each other (one of the first stlhonda dyno days there were 6-8 b16 cars and they all made similar power regardless of mods) and surprising was my b16 ef hatch made middle ground power but was the fastest of all the b-series cars in the area for a long time ... so like i said a tune wont really make a difference with i/h/e bolt ons

Redline · Post by **Redline** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:40 am

must agree with N2HIFI on this one. unless your doing major mods a tune is really not need cause your looking at only gaining 5 to 15hp at the most and you might as well save your money and put it towards a more needed place on your car.

99BlackHatch · Post by **99BlackHatch** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 4:35 pm

With my old B16A EK hatch (blackhatch), I had in a regular B16 swap with a crappy RACTIVE short ram intake and an A'PEXi N1 car back on a stock header... no chipped ECU or VAFC and the car ran great. That was a OBD2b car with an OBD1 ecu and conversion harness.

157 whp / 112 ft.lbs. It ran 14.8 @ 93 at the track and had no problem on the streets either. Tuning is not needed for basic bolt ons.

Boosted_da · Post by **Boosted_da** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 12:08 am

OK just to clarify i never said it was necessary to get a tune i said it would be beneficial

Redline=shift;254938 wrote:must agree with N2HIFI on this one. unless your doing major mods a tune is really not need cause your looking at only gaining 5 to 15hp at the most and you might as well save your money and put it toward a more needed place on your car.

not true you figure a decent cold air intake will cost you 60 bucks not to bad
exhaust system you figure Megan headers 150 bucks or so shipped
test pipe 75-100 bucks
cat back exhaust $400+
so you figure by then you spent around $750 on the low side for all new parts and you gain what 20 hp not bad
chipped ecu used will run you around $125 or so and a tune will run you $400-$500
so for what it would cost you for some decent bolt ons you can make the most of them and double your gains and then you have a good platform for future mods its win win
99blackhatch said he made 157whp thats not bad at all for bolt ons but say he gained 15hp from a tune thats roughly a 10% power increase i grantee you can feel that

sharpie · Post by **sharpie** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 1:09 am

Boosted_da;254980 wrote:OK just to clarify i never said it was necessary to get a tune i said it would be beneficial

not true you figure a decent cold air intake will cost you 60 bucks not to bad
exhaust system you figure Megan headers 150 bucks or so shipped
test pipe 75-100 bucks
cat back exhaust $400+
so you figure by then you spent around $750 on the low side for all new parts and you gain what 20 hp not bad
chipped ecu used will run you around $125 or so and a tune will run you $400-$500
so for what it would cost you for some decent bolt ons you can make the most of them and double your gains and then you have a good platform for future mods its win win
99blackhatch said he made 157whp thats not bad at all for bolt ons but say he gained 15hp from a tune thats roughly a 10% power increase i grantee you can feel that

40whp from bolt ons and a tune seems like a bit of a stretch to me I'd say maybe 25-30whp, maybe